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Member since 7/16/07
Posts: 30016
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Posted on: 5/13/11 8:04 PM ET
On Burda and other European magazine patterns, I know you don't add the seam allowance on the center fold, but where else do you not add the seam allowance? What about on the kick pleat edge?

Comparing the skirt pattern I just cut out to a similar Burda envelope pattern, I have a feeling I wasn't supposed to add a S.A. to the right kick pleat edge.

-- Edited on 5/13/11 8:04 PM --
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my shield and my very great reward ~ Gen. 15:1

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
If you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid. ~ Albert Einstein

People have a way of becoming what you encourage them to be, not what you nag them to be. ~ Scudder N. Parker
  
Member since 11/4/05
Posts: 225
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Posted on: 5/13/11 11:24 PM ET
One place that you shouldn't add seam allowances is anywhere that later, in the directions, the first thing they tell you to do is, "Cut off the seam allowances." Frustrating, to add them only to be told to cut them off! This does happen, so I've been trying to remember to check.
  
Member since 4/3/10
Posts: 1598
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Posted on: 5/14/11 9:21 AM ET
Thanks for asking this. I had the same question yesterday. I bought my first Burda magazine. I'm not sure this is going to be for me. With a FT job and a love for sewing I might not want to spend hours just tracing and cutting a pattern.

I THOUGHT I was doing a center back, then realized this garment has a seam in the back. Luckily, I was only at the pattern, not fabric stage.
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Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
"I not only use all the brains I have, but all I can borrow." Woodrow Wilson
  
Member since 1/20/08
Posts: 1301
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Posted on: 5/14/11 9:27 AM ET
In reply to Vintage Joan
Sometimes Burda magazine patterns can be a challenge. When I first started sewing them I would often compare them to similar patterns from my pattern stash to see how the pieces compared. So, if I had a kick pleat I was tracing, I might compare that to a skirt with a kick pleat that I already had....and may even use the instructions from the envelope pattern when sewing. That helped me immensely in understanding burda instructions and also figuring out where to add seam allowances, and where not to. I always found it incredibly confusing, for example, when they would include just in the pattern instructions to cut a rectangle measuring X for a cuff. No pattern piece...do I add seam allowances? Or do I just cut the size they indicate? I hated that!!
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Michelle

http://cheapandpicky.blogspot.com/
  
Member since 4/3/10
Posts: 1598
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Posted on: 5/14/11 10:23 AM ET
In reply to Michelle L
I believe I just did this with a patch pocket. It made sense that I didn't need to add seam allowance to a piece that said cut x by x inches but they looked SO small! i added SA. I am getting ready to sew the pocket to the dress and it goes off the side seam. I'm thinking no SA for patch pockets.
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Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
"I not only use all the brains I have, but all I can borrow." Woodrow Wilson
  
Member since 7/16/07
Posts: 30016
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Posted on: 5/14/11 11:31 AM ET
I finally decided to cut off the seam allowance I had added on the kick pleat right edge, even though the instructions did say to add SA's to edges. The reason I cut it off is that in the paper pattern I checked, the right kick pleat extension (or whatever it's called) is exactly twice the width of the left kick pleat extension. If I added the seam allowance to the right-side one, I'd have to add a seam allowance to the left-side one. Also, even with the seam allowances built in, the envelope pattern has narrower kick pleat extensions than the ones on my magazine pattern. If I was wrong to chop off the SA, I guess the worst that can happen is that I'll have to waddle a little bit when I walk.
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my shield and my very great reward ~ Gen. 15:1

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
If you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid. ~ Albert Einstein

People have a way of becoming what you encourage them to be, not what you nag them to be. ~ Scudder N. Parker
  
Member since 4/24/06
Posts: 316
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Posted on: 5/16/11 11:38 AM ET
Not only where do you add seam allowances, but do you add them at all the same width? When I first started with Burda I was addding 5/8 everywhere except the side seams and those I added at 1 but then I was always trimming at the neck or the armscye so I started adding those at 3/8. Yes, I was confusing myself. Now, I think I have the hang of it - but I still always double check. Of course, making a muslin helps to see where I have made any mistakes in tracing.
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Kemish
  
Member since 1/6/06
Posts: 159
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Posted on: 5/16/11 12:36 PM ET
The short answer is wherever you need them. When in doubt, I add one, Just in case. I can always cut is off later. As far as how wide, I like that I can choose how wide a SA to add at different areas. On collars and very sharp curves such as neck lines, I add 1/4" on SS I add 1" for fitting at the fabric stage. If I know I am going to bind the edge I add none at all. To remind myself what the SA on each piece is I trace the stitching line first and then add SA so I can see what I added at a glance.

I fell it is empowering to get to make those choices and not have to do it the way someone else says. It can be intimidating not to have someone telling you what to do, but in the end you learn so much more. Remeber, it is only fabric, not brain surgery.
-Michelle
  
Member since 6/6/04
Posts: 1042
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Posted on: 5/16/11 12:55 PM ET
In reply to hornlinechick
I am the same as you are. My current teacher is a fan of small SA, She says if you measure right there is no need for a large seam allowance. So we only add 0.8mm unless more is required. I have to say it is working for me.
Also with Burda it is a case of getting used to it, I use the technical drawing as a guide of which parts need to be attached to others Often the pattern piece lay out gives a good indication too .
Once you are used to it is is much easier to start drafting your own patterns by hand as you will always have to decide where you need to add the SA.

When using big4 patterns I always have to warn both my teacher and my fellow students of the seam allowance being there already and wider than they think.

Quote:
Remeber, it is only fabric, not brain surgery.

And even that, I have on very good authority, can be learned

Gilraen
-- Edited on 5/16/11 12:55 PM --
  
Member since 11/4/05
Posts: 225
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Posted on: 5/16/11 3:28 PM ET
Quote:
we only add 0.8mm


I assume you mean 8 mm? 0.8 cm? I've been adding 1/4 inch SAs, which is slightly smaller than 8 mm, I think.

Also - when making pieces cut to measure - when they say cut something, say, 2 X 4 inches "incl. allowances," they mean "including allowances" - in other words, the allowance is already included. It took me a while to trust this, because I wondered if it was a reminder to "include allowances."
  
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