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Pattern sizing (Moderated by EleanorSews)
Posted on: 6/11/11 6:07 PM ET
I've just completed Butterick B5645. It's huge and I can't wear it. What a waste of good material and my time!
Are there any pattern companies that use true-to-size pattern sizing? I measured myself top to bottom and side to side :/
I thought if I followed the sizing guidelines stated on the pattern I'd be okay. Grrrrr!!!!!
Are there any pattern companies that use true-to-size pattern sizing? I measured myself top to bottom and side to side :/
I thought if I followed the sizing guidelines stated on the pattern I'd be okay. Grrrrr!!!!!
Posted on: 6/11/11 7:11 PM ET
In reply to Lindawoo
Hi there. So sorry to hear you're so frustrated! But don't give up. Help (from us here on PR) is on the way. You say the top is huge..did you make a muslin/mockup first to see how it would fit? If you didn't, now you know you need to.
Is the top huge across the front, where the bust is or above it? Compare your shoulder length against the pattern's. My shoulders are about 1" shorter than the standard measurements for my pattern size, and I have to adjust.
Is the top huge in the neckline? Necklines are based on shoulder length. If you get the neck and shoulders to fit, the rest is just letting out or taking in at the side seams.
Now as to "true to size pattern sizing". You didn't buy the size based on your RTW size, did you? Because that's another problem. Pattern sizing is very different from the RTW sizing. Check your body measurements against the measurements on the back of the pattern envelope. Then you check the bust, waist and hip sizes of the pattern, and compare those to the pattern envelope, because that is what tells you how much ease is built into the pattern. This gives you an idea of how big this top is going to be on you. Minimum ease at the bust, on a tight fitting garment is about 2.5 inches; waistline ease is 1" and hip ease is 3".
I am probably shooting in the dark here, but there's more information you need to post so we can help you.
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Is the top huge across the front, where the bust is or above it? Compare your shoulder length against the pattern's. My shoulders are about 1" shorter than the standard measurements for my pattern size, and I have to adjust.
Is the top huge in the neckline? Necklines are based on shoulder length. If you get the neck and shoulders to fit, the rest is just letting out or taking in at the side seams.
Now as to "true to size pattern sizing". You didn't buy the size based on your RTW size, did you? Because that's another problem. Pattern sizing is very different from the RTW sizing. Check your body measurements against the measurements on the back of the pattern envelope. Then you check the bust, waist and hip sizes of the pattern, and compare those to the pattern envelope, because that is what tells you how much ease is built into the pattern. This gives you an idea of how big this top is going to be on you. Minimum ease at the bust, on a tight fitting garment is about 2.5 inches; waistline ease is 1" and hip ease is 3".
I am probably shooting in the dark here, but there's more information you need to post so we can help you.
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"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine
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Posted on: 6/11/11 7:22 PM ET
Don't despair yet. I can't count the number of botched jobs I've had! If it's really huge you may be able to take it apart and cut a smaller size from the pieces. If you have some "waste" fabric around the house (like an old sheet or two), you could make a muslin in a smaller size, fit it carefully, then pull it apart and use it for a pattern. Sew it with basting stitches if you're going to do that. Size tends to vary a bit with different pattern companies, I think. I'm sure more experienced seamstresses could offer more assistance, either with fixing the problem or re-purposing the fabric.
Posted on: 6/11/11 8:02 PM ET
This is a very common problem for beginner sewers ... figuring out what size to sew. You can't go by the measurements on the back of the envelope, what you need to do is go by the finished garment size, which can usually be found printed on the pattern piece itself (eg on the bodice you'll find the bust measurement), but if not you can simply measure the pattern pieces themselves ... don't include the seam allowances! You need to judge how much ease you need, and again some patterns will tell you how much ease they have built in, and frankly sometimes this is way too much, even if the garment is supposed to be loose fitting. Don't despair! Its not you! As one of the other posters mentioned it is a good idea to do a pattern up first in a cheap fabric so you get an idea of what size to use.
Posted on: 6/11/11 8:04 PM ET
Thank you for your replies!
I didn't buy my RTW size - I went by the suggested size per my measurements on the pattern but it's way too big in the shoulder area, and thus the entire garment is ill-fitting. I will research on PR how to adjust the pattern for a smaller shoulder measurement.
Hmmmm, come to think of it....I just recently discovered that petite tops fit me better since I am "short-waisted" even though I'm 5'5".
I now understand the purpose of sewing a muslin. I'll try again with cutting the pattern down to a smaller size and sewing up a mock garment.
(love this site!!!!)
Thank you :)
LInda
I didn't buy my RTW size - I went by the suggested size per my measurements on the pattern but it's way too big in the shoulder area, and thus the entire garment is ill-fitting. I will research on PR how to adjust the pattern for a smaller shoulder measurement.
Hmmmm, come to think of it....I just recently discovered that petite tops fit me better since I am "short-waisted" even though I'm 5'5".
I now understand the purpose of sewing a muslin. I'll try again with cutting the pattern down to a smaller size and sewing up a mock garment.
(love this site!!!!)
Thank you :)
LInda
Posted on: 6/11/11 8:06 PM ET
http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/how-to-choose-your-correct-size-pages-339.php
This link might be helpful. You'll also see a link in the left side bar for an Ease chart.
This link might be helpful. You'll also see a link in the left side bar for an Ease chart.
Posted on: 6/11/11 8:17 PM ET
Thank you!! Will do me some "learnin'". :)
You all are the best! I'll keep you updated when I get myself straightened out :)
Hugs,
Linda
You all are the best! I'll keep you updated when I get myself straightened out :)
Hugs,
Linda
Posted on: 6/11/11 8:20 PM ET
In reply to Lindawoo
Did you use your full bust measurement? If so what is the difference between your full bus and your upper bust? You may need to buy a smaller size to fit your shoulders and then do an FBA (that's what I have to do -- I start with an 18 and it's pretty close to fitting the shoulders. If I went by my full bust measurement I would be making a 24 or 26 which would be huge in the shoulder area).
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Sheila
"sewing very slowly to fill an empty closet"
Stash Tally: net +46.375 yds (2014 to 2020); net +48.0 (2021); net +57.125 (2022); net +109.875 (2023)- Stash Tally 2024: 77.5 yds out/90.375 yds in (net + 12.875 yds)
2025 Stash Busting:
0 yds sewn (as of 01/01/25)
0 yds purchased/received (as of 01/01/25)
"sewing very slowly to fill an empty closet"
Stash Tally: net +46.375 yds (2014 to 2020); net +48.0 (2021); net +57.125 (2022); net +109.875 (2023)- Stash Tally 2024: 77.5 yds out/90.375 yds in (net + 12.875 yds)
2025 Stash Busting:
0 yds sewn (as of 01/01/25)
0 yds purchased/received (as of 01/01/25)
Posted on: 6/11/11 8:51 PM ET
Yes, I did use my full bust measurement which pointed me to the XL size.
I've just cut down the pattern to the L size from XL. Hopefully this will work better for my frame. Can you please direct me to information on making FBA?
Tomorrow I'll try to deconstruct the top and recut it to fit the (now) smaller pattern pieces.
Linda
I've just cut down the pattern to the L size from XL. Hopefully this will work better for my frame. Can you please direct me to information on making FBA?
Tomorrow I'll try to deconstruct the top and recut it to fit the (now) smaller pattern pieces.
Linda
Posted on: 6/11/11 10:57 PM ET
In reply to Lindawoo
I'm not the best when it comes to doing searches but it you type "full bust" into the search box at the upper left and use the drop down menu to change patterns to boards, you should get a whole bunch of threads on the topic.
You can also search "full bust adjustment" on a search engine like google.
I use the book "Fit for Real People" (FFRP) and a few articles by Kathryn Brenne that are available at the Vogue Patterns Magazine site.
There are tons of other sources and I'm sure others will pipe in with information.
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You can also search "full bust adjustment" on a search engine like google.
I use the book "Fit for Real People" (FFRP) and a few articles by Kathryn Brenne that are available at the Vogue Patterns Magazine site.
There are tons of other sources and I'm sure others will pipe in with information.
------
Sheila
"sewing very slowly to fill an empty closet"
Stash Tally: net +46.375 yds (2014 to 2020); net +48.0 (2021); net +57.125 (2022); net +109.875 (2023)- Stash Tally 2024: 77.5 yds out/90.375 yds in (net + 12.875 yds)
2025 Stash Busting:
0 yds sewn (as of 01/01/25)
0 yds purchased/received (as of 01/01/25)
"sewing very slowly to fill an empty closet"
Stash Tally: net +46.375 yds (2014 to 2020); net +48.0 (2021); net +57.125 (2022); net +109.875 (2023)- Stash Tally 2024: 77.5 yds out/90.375 yds in (net + 12.875 yds)
2025 Stash Busting:
0 yds sewn (as of 01/01/25)
0 yds purchased/received (as of 01/01/25)
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