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How does Homer say it? "d'oh" (Moderated by Sharon1952, EleanorSews)
Posted on: 1/30/12 10:06 AM ET
I was working on a project yesterday, from a very well drafted pattern. I was completing a long seam, and when I got to the end my seam line was off from the dot transferred from the pattern (and they should have intersected). usually I chalk that up to some sloppiness transferring the marks, but this time I measured the seam as sewn, and it wasn't actually 5/8 inches! So, I measured the distance from the centered needle to the 15 mm line I use as my guide line, and that's not 5/8 inches either.....
Turns out I have been sewing seams a bit too small for quite a while... very embarrassed that I didn't check this long ago....
Here's the math.... 5/8 inches = 15.875 mm. So, if you have the 15 mm mark, as my viking does, and you're sewing 5/8 inch seams, check to see where the 5/8 line would really be.....
Doesn't sound like much, but if you have a lot of vertical seams (the pair of pants I am making have six total), it would add up.... I have noticed that most patterns say 1.5 cm = 5/8 inch, but it's not quite the same.
Or, am I being a wonk? I don't think so.... in a hobby where people debate what part of the black line on a pattern one should cut along, it seems these small differences do matter.....
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Turns out I have been sewing seams a bit too small for quite a while... very embarrassed that I didn't check this long ago....
Here's the math.... 5/8 inches = 15.875 mm. So, if you have the 15 mm mark, as my viking does, and you're sewing 5/8 inch seams, check to see where the 5/8 line would really be.....
Doesn't sound like much, but if you have a lot of vertical seams (the pair of pants I am making have six total), it would add up.... I have noticed that most patterns say 1.5 cm = 5/8 inch, but it's not quite the same.
Or, am I being a wonk? I don't think so.... in a hobby where people debate what part of the black line on a pattern one should cut along, it seems these small differences do matter.....
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Viking Lily 545
Viking Ruby
Bernina Activa 210
Brother 1034d
Viking Ruby
Bernina Activa 210
Brother 1034d
Posted on: 1/30/12 10:48 AM ET
That's one reason I finally broke down and bought the Viking plate with imperial markings. I love it and wish I'd bought it years ago.
-- Edited on 1/30/12 12:29 PM --
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-- Edited on 1/30/12 12:29 PM --
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Singer 66-16. Singer 600e, Kenmore 158.1913 , Viking 1100, Brother PR1000!, Bernina 930, Bernina 1130,
Babylock Evolve, 2 Featherweights ,Pfaff Performance Icon,Janome Coverpro 1000CPX
Babylock Evolve, 2 Featherweights ,Pfaff Performance Icon,Janome Coverpro 1000CPX
Posted on: 1/30/12 11:40 AM ET
In reply to clt3
I have one, but as I recall it's a straight stitch plate, I couldn't get the one that allows zig-zag. So I haven't used it much... will try harder to find the more universal one ;)
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Viking Lily 545
Viking Ruby
Bernina Activa 210
Brother 1034d
Viking Ruby
Bernina Activa 210
Brother 1034d
Posted on: 1/30/12 2:37 PM ET
A small stripe of blue painters tape works for me when I need to use a seam allowance that isn't marked on the machine. Fold over a little tab at the far end and you can get it off easily.
Posted on: 1/30/12 5:11 PM ET
In reply to NhiHuynh
Quote: NhiHuynh
A small stripe of blue painters tape works for me when I need to use a seam allowance that isn't marked on the machine. Fold over a little tab at the far end and you can get it off easily.
A small stripe of blue painters tape works for me when I need to use a seam allowance that isn't marked on the machine. Fold over a little tab at the far end and you can get it off easily.
I like to use painters tape cut to a point so the outer edge of the seam allowance (SA) rides right on that point. It's very visually obvious if my seam is getting too wide (the point of painters tape disappears under the seam allowance) or too small (there's a gap between the edge of the seam allowance and the point of the painters tape). This is especially useful when sewing curves.
I find that round office supply stickers (make sure you get the EASY TO REMOVE stickers) also work well because the 5/8-inch mark (the edge of the circle) is clearly visible even as I sew curved seams. Again I'll see a gap between the SA and circle if my seam is too narrow, or the edge of the circle will be covered by the SA if the seam is too wide.
Office Supply products that could be useful:
3/4-inch removable dot laebls.
Post-It Arrow Flags
CMC
Posted on: 1/30/12 5:50 PM ET
Thanks for the good suggestions everyone!
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Viking Lily 545
Viking Ruby
Bernina Activa 210
Brother 1034d
Viking Ruby
Bernina Activa 210
Brother 1034d
Posted on: 1/30/12 6:03 PM ET
I do that a lot! I have to keep a note handy which seam allowance I'm working with, since I have a tendency to go back and forth between projects and will otherwise forget.
Post-its for me fall off of my stainless steel foot plate, but I do sometimes use Painter's Tape to remind me, and sometimes just a rubberband around the free arm if I want a little 'edge' to line up to.

Post-its for me fall off of my stainless steel foot plate, but I do sometimes use Painter's Tape to remind me, and sometimes just a rubberband around the free arm if I want a little 'edge' to line up to.
Posted on: 1/30/12 6:10 PM ET
I bought a magnetic doohickey (sorry, can't think what it is called!) last week that has a metal bar on it with a flat plate and curved ends. I drew my usual measurements (5/8 inch, 1/2 inch, etc.) in pen on the sewing machine plate itself, and use the magnetic thing to help me line up the fabric correctly. My seams have improved radically since last week! Just having a line isn't enough for me to stay accurate -- I need that physical barrier as well.
Of course, the magnetic thing only works on metal machines. Wouldn't be any use whatsoever on plastic...
Of course, the magnetic thing only works on metal machines. Wouldn't be any use whatsoever on plastic...
Posted on: 1/30/12 7:11 PM ET
In reply to kkkkaty
This is the very thing that people who quilt are up against. When sewing a 1/4" seam, it has to be exactly 1/4", or the blocks won't "nest". And some people use a "scant" 1/4" seam, meaning they move the needle over the width of the thread, so that the seam is 1/4" including the width of the thread.
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