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Member since 8/20/04
Posts: 658
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Re: Fabric bunching behind shoulder on sleeve and back (under arm) (posted on 4/13/05 9:40 PM ET)
I'm working on CJ's Fitted Jacket and am on my 3rd muslin. I was so excited because this one fit really great. Then I got the sleeves on and I have a bunch of fabric bunching right below where the sleeve and jacket meet (under my arm) and also the back of the sleeve isn't hanging properly.

I'm thinking the second problem may be caused by my forward shoulder adjustment, but I've been working trying to fix the hang of the sleeve and I can improve it, but it doesn't help the back under the arm.

Would the back problem be because it is too wide across my back? I usually don't have that problem, but I'm not used to her patterns.

The back hangs nicely without the sleeve in, so I'm thinking I should cut down the armcye, but don't know that much about fitting, so I'm scared to start cutting. I don't know if this all makes sense without a picture, but any help would be appreciated.

Thanks, Jeanette
-- Edited on 4/13/05 11:51 PM --
  
Member since 10/5/02
Posts: 2292
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Posted on: 4/13/05 10:55 PM ET
Any chance for a picture? It would definately help with diagnosing. I am not familiar with this pattern, but maybe someone who is can help sort it out. Just make sure your shoulder notch stayed where it should and didnt move when you did your forward shoulder adjustment.
  
Member since 8/20/04
Posts: 658
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Posted on: 4/13/05 11:27 PM ET
That's why I was struggling with the forward shoulder adjustment... if you keep the notch in the original place, the back seams don't line up in the back (they get shifted by the amount of the FS adjustment).

I will try to get a picture... Thanks!

(added later...) I was just thinking about it, and on this version, I did keep the notch in the original place, but I'm thinking that it is making the sleeve hang funny, because the grainline is going from behind the top of the shoulder, does that make sense? I know in Fit For Real People, they adjust the sleeve, or rotate the whole sleeve, but then the seams don't line up.

-- Edited on 4/14/05 0:46 AM --
-- Edited on 4/14/05 0:47 AM --
  
Member since 1/28/03
Posts: 1979
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Posted on: 4/14/05 2:48 AM ET
In reply to jemgirlca
Hi jemgirlca
Quote:
I know in Fit For Real People, they adjust the sleeve, or rotate the whole sleeve, but then the seams don't line up

it is not important that the seams don’t line up. The only thing what matters is the correct placement of the sleeve, so it will be hanging properly .
You can measure the amount you needed for the forward shoulder placement and transfer this notch by the same amount on your new sleeve shoulder point, remark the notches on the front and back sleeve and baste the sleeve in. Where the underarm sleeve seam will be is not important for the correct placement of the sleeve.
------
http://thesewingdivas.wordpress.com/
  
Member since 8/20/04
Posts: 658
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Posted on: 4/15/05 9:51 AM ET
I worked on this for a long time yesterday... Moving the sleeve, fixed the sleeve problem.

The more I looked at the back, the more I decided that it was just too big. So I took apart the whole jacket (most of it was machine basted, except for the facings and collar which were finished) and recut it a smaller size. It seems to be much better. I think part of the problem is also that the fabric is a bit drapey and there is no lining, but it looks much better. Hopefully, I will be able to work on it later. I am determined to make this work... (And then I can sew something more fun. )

Thanks for the help! -Jeanette
  
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