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help with "pointy" darts (Moderated by Deepika)
Posted on: 6/16/05 12:46 PM ET
HELP! I've been sewing for years, yet I cannot seem to master the bust dart. I even took a pattern class that explained it, but I still get darts that look "pointy" on the outside, or stick out like a little bubble and look very wierd and unattractive. Any tips that may help? Thanks!
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All children are artists. The problem is how to remain an artist once he grows up. -Pablo Picasso
Posted on: 6/16/05 1:03 PM ET
I'm not sure how you're sewing them so if you already know all this just ignore me, lol. :-) I'm by no means an expert but I've made my share of darts.
Shortening the darts should help. I find that people often don't realize that there is a difference between a patternmaker's dart and a dressmaker's dart. The patternmaker's dart goes all the way to the apex. The dressmaker's dart - what we sew - ends at least 1" away from the apex. The more closely fitted the garment, the closer to the apex the end of the dart will be. Sometimes when I work with darts in my patterns I forget to draw a new sewing line. We've all done it and ended up with the Madonna Cone Bra look...
The way darts are sewn also makes a difference. The last bit of a dart is sewn right on the fold of the fabric - just a thread away, really - with very small (1mm) stitches. I sew right off the edge. Instead of backstitching, which is bulky. Chain off a couple of stitches, raise the foot and pull the dart towards you. Lower the foot and sew a couple of stitches in the seam allowance to anchor the thread.
Lastly, darts should always be pressed over a ham to shape them. I always press them flat first, being care never to press past the point. You're just melding the stitches. Then I press them either to one side, open or flat (depends on what I'm making and the fabric that I'm using) on the right side using a presscloth. When I press from the wrong side I often get a little weird fold.
Shortening the darts should help. I find that people often don't realize that there is a difference between a patternmaker's dart and a dressmaker's dart. The patternmaker's dart goes all the way to the apex. The dressmaker's dart - what we sew - ends at least 1" away from the apex. The more closely fitted the garment, the closer to the apex the end of the dart will be. Sometimes when I work with darts in my patterns I forget to draw a new sewing line. We've all done it and ended up with the Madonna Cone Bra look...
The way darts are sewn also makes a difference. The last bit of a dart is sewn right on the fold of the fabric - just a thread away, really - with very small (1mm) stitches. I sew right off the edge. Instead of backstitching, which is bulky. Chain off a couple of stitches, raise the foot and pull the dart towards you. Lower the foot and sew a couple of stitches in the seam allowance to anchor the thread.
Lastly, darts should always be pressed over a ham to shape them. I always press them flat first, being care never to press past the point. You're just melding the stitches. Then I press them either to one side, open or flat (depends on what I'm making and the fabric that I'm using) on the right side using a presscloth. When I press from the wrong side I often get a little weird fold.
Posted on: 6/16/05 1:43 PM ET
In reply to Gigi Louis
Gigi- thanks for the info on sewing darts. We have all sewed many; however, there is always something to learn. I always hand knot the threads at the end of a dart; however, I like your idea much better. I never thought about turning the dart around and sewing in the dart allowance the anchor the threads.
Brilliant - maybe you might want to put this in the tips category.
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Brilliant - maybe you might want to put this in the tips category.
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What is Maxine saying??
"I don't iron. If I'm not wrinkle-free why should my clothes be."
"I don't iron. If I'm not wrinkle-free why should my clothes be."
Posted on: 6/16/05 2:14 PM ET
I'd be happy to do that, Mary. I just assumed everyone did it that way. :-) I think I'll take some photos first. I'm a visual learner so I always find them helpful.
Posted on: 6/16/05 3:22 PM ET
Great information Gigi! I just sewed some mildly pointy darts myself, and this information will help me out next time. I've never been confident about what to do to finish off the dart. Really, I just need practice. 
-- Edited on 6/16/05 4:22 PM --
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-- Edited on 6/16/05 4:22 PM --
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~Karen
http://thingsfromscratch.wordpress.com
http://thingsfromscratch.wordpress.com
Posted on: 6/16/05 4:40 PM ET
I do everything the same way except finishing off the thread, which I do laboriously by hand to bury the ends inside the dart. Gonna try machining it in the SA next time.
Old dog officially learns new trick.
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Old dog officially learns new trick.
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Buy the best and you only cry once.
Posted on: 6/16/05 7:36 PM ET
Another dart technique that I find useful - the dart ends further away from the bust point for a fuller bust.
I hope I've explained this in a way that makes sense (I'm not the greatest at description).
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I hope I've explained this in a way that makes sense (I'm not the greatest at description).
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Sydney, Australia
Posted on: 6/16/05 8:29 PM ET
Thanks for adding that, Wendy. That was one thing I neglected to say.
Posted on: 6/17/05 12:48 PM ET
Wow, thank you everyone for your great tips. I'm going to try and fix my darts using this information! I'll let you know how it goes! Thanks again
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All children are artists. The problem is how to remain an artist once he grows up. -Pablo Picasso
Posted on: 6/17/05 3:54 PM ET
In reply to KiwiWendy
I had a good laugh after reading your comment, but I'm glad you brought this up. For some reason as I've been working on a fitted shirt and I was remembering the advice wrong! The fuller the bust, the closer the dart to the apex is what I was doing. After working with my darts a number of times, I decided to go back and consult my FFRP book on darts.
Dummy me! The fuller the bust, the FARTHER away the darts should be! Mine were looking quite pointy. Made the correction pronto for a much better look.
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Dummy me! The fuller the bust, the FARTHER away the darts should be! Mine were looking quite pointy. Made the correction pronto for a much better look.
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Big 4 Pattern size 12, RTW bottom: 6, RTW jacket 8, RTW top (no size fits me well!)
Measurements: 34 HB/36 FB (34C bra)/27.5/36 (and working hard to keep it that way.)
Machines: Sewing: Elna 760, vintage Kenmore Model 33 (1967), Janome Gem Gold 3, Singer Model 99, Singer 221/Featherweight, Bernina 1630. Sergers: Babylock Enlighten and Babylock Ovation. Embroidery Only: Janome 300E. Embroidery/Sewing Combo: Brother Dream machine. Straight Stitch: Janome 1600P.
Certified Palmer/Pletsch Pants Fitting Instructor
Blog: 21stcenturydiy.blogspot.com
Measurements: 34 HB/36 FB (34C bra)/27.5/36 (and working hard to keep it that way.)
Machines: Sewing: Elna 760, vintage Kenmore Model 33 (1967), Janome Gem Gold 3, Singer Model 99, Singer 221/Featherweight, Bernina 1630. Sergers: Babylock Enlighten and Babylock Ovation. Embroidery Only: Janome 300E. Embroidery/Sewing Combo: Brother Dream machine. Straight Stitch: Janome 1600P.
Certified Palmer/Pletsch Pants Fitting Instructor
Blog: 21stcenturydiy.blogspot.com
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