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Member since 7/16/07
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Posted on: 9/21/13 12:07 PM ET
I've made Burda pants a number of times using Burda envelope patterns -- easy. Now I'm trying a Burda magazine pattern for a very basic pair of pants, and I'm totally scratching my head. They say to cut a facing (15 cm x 7 cm) for the left fly front. Then for the zipper instructions they direct me to another pattern in the same magazine. After much hunting, I think I've found the part that relates to the fly facing -- fold the facing in half (I assume right sides together, but they don't say this), turn the facing right side out, sew it to the edge... Ack. I'm still lost.

I also don't know if I'm supposed to trim away some of the fabric from the right side of the zipper area.

Now you see why I usually use envelope patterns...

I hope this question doesn't sound too ridiculously basic. Pants are so easy, but Burda magazine instructions are like a secret code. I tried using a Burda envelope pattern as a guide, since the envelope pattern instructions are vastly clearer. But the patterns I looked at didn't use a separate piece for the fly facing.


-- Edited on 9/21/13 12:09 PM --
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my shield and my very great reward ~ Gen. 15:1

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If you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid. ~ Albert Einstein

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Member since 7/16/07
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Posted on: 9/21/13 9:15 PM ET
Waving hello...
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my shield and my very great reward ~ Gen. 15:1

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
If you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid. ~ Albert Einstein

People have a way of becoming what you encourage them to be, not what you nag them to be. ~ Scudder N. Parker
  
Member since 8/24/02
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Posted on: 9/21/13 9:58 PM ET
In reply to Vintage Joan
I'm going to ponder this if you don't mind as my TNT jeans/pants/pullon pants pattern is from a Burda magazine pattern from the mid-1990's, which I no longer have.

But I can say is to leave everything as it is. And the facing I've used is much wider than they state. I'm going to check this tomorrow. PM me to remind me if you would! Thanks!
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Posted on: 9/22/13 1:24 AM ET
Here is my tutorial on how to sew fly with separate fly facing and fly shield Tutorial
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Member since 5/28/11
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Posted on: 9/22/13 9:00 AM ET
Don't cut it off. It should just fold back-you won't have as much left as you think once you sew in the zipper. I see that Lena posted a tutorial; there was also another one posted on here that was really good too. Both are similar and the way I do my fly zippers. Let me see if I can find it.

I found it. It is Sandra Betzina from a Threads mag. Here is the link: fly front
-- Edited on 9/22/13 9:06 AM --
-- Edited on 9/22/13 9:07 AM --
  
Member since 8/15/04
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Posted on: 9/22/13 9:29 AM ET
In reply to Vintage Joan
I agree with you regarding tracing Burda's patterns for its fly front zipper.

Here is a thought: trace the pattern but not the zipper extensions for the fly. Leave the extensions off but follow the center front sewing line up to the waist. Add a 5/8 seam to this center front line down to the cutting line of the front curve. You want to add this 5/8 amount to meet the cutting line of the curve.

Next, look at Sandra's tutorial. She has the extensions added to the front. The extensions are not sewn on but added to the pattern.

Decided how long you want your front zipper. If you have cut out the pattern so there is no paper next to the center front cutting line, tape paper in the this area say about 4 inches wide. From the center front sewing line measure over 2 1/4 or 2 1/2 inches. Make this inch mark down the from the top of the pattern to the beginning of the curve. Now, trace the line from the top down to the beginning of the curve. You have added an extension.

Next, you want to round the bottom of the extension. You can do it by hand or if you have a Coats & Clark zipper package, carefully open the package. Notice how the one flap has a curve to it? That curve can be used at the bottom of your extension to trace your curve. I actually use the round part of a tape dispenser to draw my curved line or anything that is handy that is round such as a fashion ruler then modify if necessary.

BTW, Debbie Cook shows Sandra's tut on her blog with close up pictures of the process. View it under her tutorial section.

Woggy
  
Member since 4/11/02
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Posted on: 9/22/13 9:38 AM ET
In reply to woggy
Here's a direct link:

Fly tutorial
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Member since 3/5/13
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Posted on: 9/22/13 10:34 AM ET
I always turn to Threads for how-to's and details -- here is the link for Armani details on pants including a detailed look at fly.. http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/22914/how-to-sew-pants-inspired-by-armani
  
Member since 7/16/07
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Posted on: 9/23/13 2:55 PM ET
In reply to vflinn
That article appears to be only for "Threads insiders."

Thanks for the suggestions and links. The question I have isn't really how to sew a front-fly zipper, but what to do with that facing piece they have you cut. The Burda envelope pants patterns I've used don't have you cut a separate facing for the fly. Although now that I think of it, maybe the men's patterns did? I'll have to check.

I've probably missed something in one of your answers -- sorry.

-- Edited on 9/23/13 2:57 PM --
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my shield and my very great reward ~ Gen. 15:1

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
If you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid. ~ Albert Einstein

People have a way of becoming what you encourage them to be, not what you nag them to be. ~ Scudder N. Parker
  
Member since 4/11/02
Posts: 10809
Send Message
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Posted on: 9/23/13 5:46 PM ET
In reply to Vintage Joan
My tutorial shows the separate fly facing stuff ...
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"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." — Gilda Radner
http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com
  
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