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Posted on: 9/25/13 9:01 PM ET
I'm making a TNT shirt for the third or fourth time, and the next step is sewing up the side seams, then inserting the sleeves. But at the moment I have a beautiful flat shirt body, joined at the shoulder seams and just begging me to try sewing the sleeves in flat. Is this really as simple as it sounds? Or are there particular tips I need to know?

I found one older thread on flat sleeve sewing, and the caveats seem to be that flat works best on knits or slightly dropped shoulders (which I think this is... or possibly somewhat more than "slightly" ), and this quote from lisaquilts that I don't quite understand:

Quote:
Unfortunately--since most patterns (save for Kwik Sew) do the set in sleeve--adjustments in the sleeve must be made before the flat application.


What adjustments would I need to make to set the sleeves in flat?

Anything else before I dive in?

Thanks!!
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Member since 2/12/06
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Posted on: 9/25/13 9:58 PM ET
On a woven I use a combo method.

Working flat sew in the sleeve from one lower notch to the other lower notch. Sew the ss and the sleeve seam and press the seams open. Now working in the round sew in the lower part if the sleeve. Press the sleeve when done.

The biggest problem I've found when trying to sew a woven sleeve in flat is that when you sew the ss and sleeve in one pass the sleeve/underarm area just isn't as comfortable as it is when sewn in the round.

HTH
Debbie
  
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Posted on: 9/26/13 0:17 AM ET
I use the "flat" method for just about everything... my Mum turned me on to this method -- she was/is a designer. After design whe would walked the garments thru the complete procuess up to the workroom -- her advice was in production sewing it is more effecient to put the sleeve in when it is flat -- also she advised to sew with the sleeve on the bottom to accomadate the "ease" that is included in most sleeve pattern pieces ... my two cents worth

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Member since 6/13/13
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Posted on: 9/26/13 1:34 AM ET
The flat method works best when you have the sleeve layer on the bottom so that your feed dog can do the "easing" for you while you stretch just a little on the top (body) layer--often times not even necessary. I started doing this years ago with no prompting--at the time, I actually thought I invented it! LOL. if the sleeve cap is just too full then you may have to clip the armhole to spread it out a little.
  
Member since 9/26/13
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Posted on: 9/26/13 1:57 AM ET
It is possible to use a flat fell or a mock flat fell seam on a set in sleeve, it's just tricky. I think if you use this technique you can get flat sleeves.
  
Member since 9/4/08
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Posted on: 9/26/13 7:00 AM ET
In reply to stirwatersblue
Quote: stirwatersblue

What adjustments would I need to make to set the sleeves in flat?


Sometimes if the sleeve was meant to be set in the round, the cap is quite high. Most sleeves that are set in flat are knits and have a lower cap. I have been known to cut off some of the height to sew it in flat. I do find that although it is a bit easier to sew in flat, those sleeves are not as comfortable for me as those that are set in the round. Just my personal preference though.
  
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Posted on: 9/26/13 7:57 AM ET
For knits I always sew in flat whether the sleeve cap is flatter or not. For women's I recommend what Simplystitches' combo method.
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Posted on: 9/26/13 9:18 AM ET
I'm also one who sews in the "flat" with knits, but find it more comfortable to wear in a woven, when done with a "set in".
  
Member since 8/24/02
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Posted on: 9/26/13 9:54 AM ET
I find that serging with the sleeve on the bottom works great. I have done a lot of sleeves that way and have never had a problem.
Chris
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Posted on: 9/26/13 10:03 AM ET
In professional workroom and factory environments we sew the sleeve flat, with the sleeve on top for more "ease" control... whether it's a woven or a knit. Sewing with the sleeve on the bottom for some instances, but in most cases I have found it lends itself to the urge to stretch the flat side onto curve.... along with the risk of puckers and uneven easing- causing each sleeve when finished to look like it's twisting in opposing directions.

In "cheaper" factory sewn garments, the inseam of the sleeve and garment side seam are sewn in one pass- usually with knits. I personally do not like this since the armpit will never lay naturally to the movement of the body. This method takes two steps, versus the "better" method below taking four steps. Factory sewing workers get paid for each "step" they take... so the number of steps are always trimmed down to as few as possible.

In "better" garments usually crafted in smaller workrooms, we sew the sleeve in flat, sleeve on top.... but leave about 1.5" unsewn at the armpits on each side. Then sew the sleeve inseam and body side seam. Last would be closing up the armpit curve.

The same situation happens in the crotch curve of a pant. I always have issue when the inseams are sewn last, interrupting again the natural curve shape.
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