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Posted on: 10/18/13 10:05 AM ET
I am making pants again!

My pants are almost done (I have the seams all basted) and the waistband feels great. The thighs feel great. But the hip is every so slightly too loose. When I pinch the side seams they look exactly as I'd like them to look.

I need to take in the hips about another 1/8" so 1/2" total. But I don't think I have 1/2" to "give" at the waist and thigh. When I tried to just wing it in was not perfectly smooth. If I had to live with it I could but...if there's a nice simple way to ensure a nice smooth transition between the 5/8" seamline and the 3/4" seam line, I'd be happy
-- Edited on 10/18/13 10:07 AM --
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Janome Skyline S3 | Singer Quantum Stylist 9985 | Singer Stylist 7258 | Kenmore 1503
Baby Lock Celebrate | Brother 2340CV
My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14 | Pants 16 | Skirts 16
My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 33 UB | 32 W | 43 Hip

http://dressmakingdebacles.blogspot.com
  
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Posted on: 10/18/13 10:31 AM ET
Also, is this pucker an issue of not properly sewing/pressing my dart? Or is the dart...wrong?


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Janome Skyline S3 | Singer Quantum Stylist 9985 | Singer Stylist 7258 | Kenmore 1503
Baby Lock Celebrate | Brother 2340CV
My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14 | Pants 16 | Skirts 16
My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 33 UB | 32 W | 43 Hip

http://dressmakingdebacles.blogspot.com
  
Member since 6/4/07
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Posted on: 10/18/13 2:51 PM ET
Have you tried the frech curve ruler?
  
2014 Member of the Year
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Posted on: 10/18/13 3:53 PM ET
In reply to lca
No. I don't own one yet.
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Janome Skyline S3 | Singer Quantum Stylist 9985 | Singer Stylist 7258 | Kenmore 1503
Baby Lock Celebrate | Brother 2340CV
My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14 | Pants 16 | Skirts 16
My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 33 UB | 32 W | 43 Hip

http://dressmakingdebacles.blogspot.com
  
Member since 2/12/06
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Posted on: 10/18/13 4:32 PM ET
In reply to KSmithSews
The dart looks like it's hitting a hollow on your body. You could try making it a smidge longer. Maybe 1" longer.

As far as taking in the hips and not changing the waist you really need a french curve for a smooth transition.

Debbie
  
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Posted on: 10/18/13 7:25 PM ET
Can you try them on inside out and pin the curve you need? It might be different on each side, though...
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Posted on: 10/18/13 7:45 PM ET
ooh that's an interesting concept Laura. I will try that.

Thanks Debbie. I wondered if I needed to lengthen or shorten or WHAT
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Janome Skyline S3 | Singer Quantum Stylist 9985 | Singer Stylist 7258 | Kenmore 1503
Baby Lock Celebrate | Brother 2340CV
My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14 | Pants 16 | Skirts 16
My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 33 UB | 32 W | 43 Hip

http://dressmakingdebacles.blogspot.com
  
Member since 4/18/06
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Posted on: 10/18/13 8:25 PM ET
I have always needed to take in just the hips when sewing pants. I just put them on, pin them to the shape I want, then take them off, turn them inside out and mark on the inside before removing the pins. Can be a little tricky to keep that curved seam blended, but it can be done. ..I don't own a French curve.
  
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Posted on: 10/19/13 0:52 AM ET
I vote for the french curve. I have to alter all my pants and can't live without my french curve. It really helps with the pucker blues. ;-)
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Sewing keeps me from falling apart at the seams!
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Posted on: 10/19/13 1:24 AM ET
I think what you need is a hip curve ruler, not a true French curve, which is actually a curly-cue shape. The hip curve ruler is a longer, gradual curve.

Hip curve ruler:


French curves:


A combo of both, which you can usually find at Joann's"

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"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." — Gilda Radner
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