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offshoot from waistband topic (Moderated by Deepika)
Posted on: 7/3/05 8:15 AM ET
This is how I've learned to handle the problem.
The waistband total length is critical to maintain so there is a proper fit. I do not use a pattern, just a measurement that I'm aiming for.
I cut a long wide strip of fabric, usually with the lengthwise grain going the whole length of the band, and wide enough to include a fold down the center and 5/8" sa on each side. (Sometimes if the pant top has a 1" sa on top, I use a 1" sa on the waistband also, and trim later). I cut off a good length from this band, larger than I need for the insert. Fold, iron a crease, then unfold to mark the center. I cut a long length of elastic, longer than I need for the insert and position it on one side of the crease. I stitch across the end of the elastic to hold it. This is perpendicular to the crease. Then, I start stitching through the elastic and fabric, along the whole length, pulling and stretching the elastic out to its full stretch and keeping the elastic edge next to the fabric fold. I have to hold in back of the strip as well as in front of the strip and let the sewing machine do its thing. I sew each edge of the elastic down.
The beginning of the sewing is terrible, but once you get going the stitching becomes even and nice. That's why the extra size. I trim the crappy sewing part off and get the insert to its correct size plus two 5/8" seam allowances.
I then add the rest of the waistband EVENLY to each side of the insert and making sure that I'm going to have enough to include an overlap part for the button and end sa's. I usually do not cut to final lenghth until I've sewn the waistband onto the pant.
After the wasitband is turn rightsides out, I sew the insert again, stretching the whole stretch so that the underside waistband is attached. I pull the thread to the underside and tie a square knot.
-- Edited on 7/3/05 9:33 AM --
-- Edited on 7/3/05 9:46 AM --
The waistband total length is critical to maintain so there is a proper fit. I do not use a pattern, just a measurement that I'm aiming for.
I cut a long wide strip of fabric, usually with the lengthwise grain going the whole length of the band, and wide enough to include a fold down the center and 5/8" sa on each side. (Sometimes if the pant top has a 1" sa on top, I use a 1" sa on the waistband also, and trim later). I cut off a good length from this band, larger than I need for the insert. Fold, iron a crease, then unfold to mark the center. I cut a long length of elastic, longer than I need for the insert and position it on one side of the crease. I stitch across the end of the elastic to hold it. This is perpendicular to the crease. Then, I start stitching through the elastic and fabric, along the whole length, pulling and stretching the elastic out to its full stretch and keeping the elastic edge next to the fabric fold. I have to hold in back of the strip as well as in front of the strip and let the sewing machine do its thing. I sew each edge of the elastic down.
The beginning of the sewing is terrible, but once you get going the stitching becomes even and nice. That's why the extra size. I trim the crappy sewing part off and get the insert to its correct size plus two 5/8" seam allowances.
I then add the rest of the waistband EVENLY to each side of the insert and making sure that I'm going to have enough to include an overlap part for the button and end sa's. I usually do not cut to final lenghth until I've sewn the waistband onto the pant.
After the wasitband is turn rightsides out, I sew the insert again, stretching the whole stretch so that the underside waistband is attached. I pull the thread to the underside and tie a square knot.
-- Edited on 7/3/05 9:33 AM --
-- Edited on 7/3/05 9:46 AM --
Posted on: 7/4/05 8:52 PM ET
Thanks for explaining the steps on how to do this. I am definitely going to use this the next time I make a straight skirt.
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Jean
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