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Member since 8/4/13
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Posted on: 4/6/14 4:22 PM ET
I'm making BurdaStyle 03/2014 Long Sleeve Tee with Pleat out of a tissue weight poly/cotton burnout jersey. The whole thing is bias cut (I didn't realize the challenge until I was well into it, lol). I'm worried that the bottom hem will stretch way out so I'm considering adding a band to the bottom (non bias). The top is loose fitting until it gets to the bottom where it is nice and tight to my hips. The band would also give me some added length, which is always welcomed. Is this a good idea on a bias cut top? Would it likely stretch way out over time?
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Posted on: 4/7/14 6:35 AM ET
I thought jersey didn't have bias the same way we think of a woven having it. And it's stretchy to begin with, so I can't imagine you would have an issue with it stretching out, unless your fabric doesn't have good recovery, and in that case, it shouldn't have anything to do with the cut....
  
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Posted on: 4/7/14 11:00 AM ET
You are the designer, but in my opinion, if you put a band on the hem, the pleat may bulge out and look odd.
As far as stretching out, that also may add length, which you say you would not mind.
-- Edited on 4/7/14 11:01 AM --
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Member since 7/19/07
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Posted on: 4/7/14 1:24 PM ET
You shouldn't have an issue with the hem of a jersey top stretching out as long as your fabric has decent recovery (even if it's on the bias). Do you know if your fabric has any lycra content? When you pull it, does it spring back right away? If so, you shouldn't have to worry.
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Posted on: 4/7/14 2:44 PM ET
Ok, I hemmed it, and did not add a band. Thanks for talking me off the edge ladies! I love the way it looks! Hopefully I'll have a review up if my photos turned out. It was starting to rain so I had to hurry and couldn't check them.
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Member since 12/28/04
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Posted on: 4/7/14 5:01 PM ET
In reply to detroy
I have this pattern and the whole look of the top would be changed if you added a band. Use a knit that has good recovery and you won't have a problem. Test out your double needle on a crosswise scrap measuring before and after you've sewn a hem. If it's the same you won't have an issue. I am making a top with a cotton cashmere blend and it does not have lycra in it. I played around with my coverstitch machine until I found the right amount of differential feed so that the before and after measurement was the same. Lower your presser foot pressure before you hem also helps.
I had forgotten that they cut this on the bias. It's a waste of fabric to do this since knits do not have a bias.
-- Edited on 4/7/14 5:02 PM --
-- Edited on 4/7/14 5:03 PM --
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Posted on: 4/7/14 7:52 PM ET
In reply to Nancy K
Quote: Nancy K
I have this pattern and the whole look of the top would be changed if you added a band. Use a knit that has good recovery and you won't have a problem. Test out your double needle on a crosswise scrap measuring before and after you've sewn a hem. If it's the same you won't have an issue. I am making a top with a cotton cashmere blend and it does not have lycra in it. I played around with my coverstitch machine until I found the right amount of differential feed so that the before and after measurement was the same. Lower your presser foot pressure before you hem also helps.

I had forgotten that they cut this on the bias. It's a waste of fabric to do this since knits do not have a bias.

-- Edited on 4/7/14 5:02 PM --
-- Edited on 4/7/14 5:03 PM --

My review is up now (but the main pic is the rear view, I have no idea why - I tried to change it). I used a zig zag for both sleeve and bottom hems. I cannot for the life of me get a double needle hem to look right. Major tunneling on both my machines. I tried paper too and I'm not going to bother with buying all sorts of stabilizers to experiment...no time for that. The fabric pattern hides the zig zag.

My fabric has no lycra at all, but very good recovery despite. I have two machines but neither has adjustable pressure foot pressure - go figure (they're not cheap machines, either).

I totally agree on the bias cut being a waste. I went into it in my review and I'm going to make another cut straight for kicks and giggles. It's a fun top.
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A lint trap is basically a graveyard for the fabric you are losing from your clothes.
  
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