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Member since 1/6/11
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Posted on: 4/13/14 5:46 PM ET
Hi there,

I am working on a dress for the Bargainista Fashionista contest and I'm using a Lekala pattern which was created for my measurements. It's a pretty good fit, but I need a tiny bit more room in the bust, and I'm not sure how to get it. There are no darts or anything on the front piece. I cut it out of STP and basted the pieces together:


Here is the pattern drawing:


And here is the original (super expensive) dress I am trying to sort of re-create. It doesn't need to be exact, just inspired by it. I will put a long zipper down the front and do some kind of pleating or gathering at the top neck/shoulder area.


So, can anyone help me to figure out how to add just a little bit to the bust area? I thought if I just increased the width of the front piece at the side seam under the arm, then I would have to add a dart or two to take out some fullness elsewhere. I'm just not sure what to try first. Thanks in advance!
-- Edited on 4/13/14 5:48 PM --
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www.dawnberries.blogspot.com
2012: 78.5 yards sewn from stash
20 tees, 1 sweater, 1 jeans upcycled
103 items sewn
2013 unknown (not much)
2014
March 10 yds


  
Member since 4/20/08
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Posted on: 4/13/14 6:11 PM ET
In reply to dawn so cal
Just adding to the side seams isn't going to solve all the issues. You need to add length too You don't need a dart to do an FBA. Have you done an FBA before? Do you have Fit For Real People? They suggest cutting the dress at the waist and treating the bodice with the usual slash and spread FBA, then true up the side seams when "reattaching" the skirt.
  
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Posted on: 4/14/14 0:58 AM ET
Yes, you need to do an FBA. There are good instructions on the web and Youtube. The below link is extremely simplistic, but gives you the idea. You can find the details in many books and web sites. For a dress, just alter the bodice and not all the way down, or your hem and width of your dress will be too wide. After doing the FBA on the bodice, blend in your side seams with the rest of your dress. Good luck!

Generalized FBA
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Member since 4/28/08
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Posted on: 4/14/14 3:18 AM ET
I am no great expert on fba's, but i wonder if you can rotate the dart/excess needed towards the neckline and do extra gathering there instead of adding a dart? Hope that makes sense.
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Sue (Toowoomba Qld)
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Posted on: 4/14/14 8:06 AM ET
You do need a bit of an fba. I sometimes do a cheater fba by adding to the front sides to give a bit more bust room but remember to adjust the sleeve front if you do that. ETA: oops I see this is a sleeveless dress. Adding to the side might not be a good idea in this case.

The front gathers are bust darts so you can add to that a couple of ways.

First is to add a side bust dart. It is not in the original design but will enhance fit and be more comfortable.

Simple FBA

If you don't want to have the side dart, you can rotate it to the neck gathers. If you want to rotate the dart, we can walk you through that also.
-- Edited on 4/14/14 8:07 AM --
  
Member since 1/6/11
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Posted on: 4/14/14 9:00 AM ET
Shoot! I was hoping I could get away with NOT doing an FBA since it's such a tiny amount. I have done a couple, but it's like re-inventing the wheel each time for me. Just reading the various resources on how to do it makes my head swim......
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www.dawnberries.blogspot.com
2012: 78.5 yards sewn from stash
20 tees, 1 sweater, 1 jeans upcycled
103 items sewn
2013 unknown (not much)
2014
March 10 yds


  
Member since 1/6/11
Posts: 354
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Posted on: 4/14/14 9:10 AM ET
In reply to SewLibra
Actually, that little video is so much easier to understand than a bunch of words! Thank you! I guess I'm a visual learner.......

One problem I have is that this is a Lekala pattern, so it was actually supposed to be made for my measurements and adjustments already. (I am guessing the design just won't accommodate my bust.) Since I don't have pattern measurements to compare to, how much should I spread it? Maybe 3/4" on each side?
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www.dawnberries.blogspot.com
2012: 78.5 yards sewn from stash
20 tees, 1 sweater, 1 jeans upcycled
103 items sewn
2013 unknown (not much)
2014
March 10 yds


  
Member since 6/4/07
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Posted on: 4/14/14 12:18 PM ET
Unpin and let it spread at your bust line. This will tell you how much you need to add for the FBA. Rotate the dart to the neck line.
  
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Posted on: 4/14/14 2:07 PM ET
In reply to dawn so cal
What Ica said. Just open the front and let it spread to where things look right. I think you need more of an FBA than a "tiny amount". Perhaps this was made according to flat pattern measurements, not taking into account the space a larger breast would need.
  
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Posted on: 4/15/14 8:50 AM ET
In reply to lca
Quote: lca
Unpin and let it spread at your bust line. This will tell you how much you need to add for the FBA. Rotate the dart to the neck line.

Shoot! That's a great idea! Unfortunately, I already added one inch to each of my pattern pieces. I still need to try it on and see if that will work. I'm not sure about rotating the dart..... For now, I just have a dart on the side and some pleats on the top.
------
www.dawnberries.blogspot.com
2012: 78.5 yards sewn from stash
20 tees, 1 sweater, 1 jeans upcycled
103 items sewn
2013 unknown (not much)
2014
March 10 yds


  
12 
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