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Member since 5/16/08
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Posted on: 6/18/14 12:51 PM ET
I want to ensure the slash pocket I'm putting in a skirt doesn't stretch and bag open.

I've read to reinforce the edge with twill tape, fusible interfacing, or a selvedge snipped off a firmly woven fabric. I have all of these.

But I'm mystified as to where these go. Does the interfacing just go along the seam line but not over the seam allowance? I don't see how that would stop stretching. Does the twill tape or selvedge get centered over the seam line? If so, doesn't that make the seam between the outside and the pocket bag thick and cumbersome when folded?

Thanks for all insights.
  
Member since 5/10/06
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Posted on: 6/18/14 1:56 PM ET
I use a length of narrow ribbon (1/4"), sewn to the seam line on the body of the garment. There's a photo in this post that shows it pretty well (I'm having trouble getting the picture to load for some reason, so I can't paste the picture here). With narrow ribbon, I've never had any problems with the pocket line being bulky or not pressing properly.
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http://theslapdashsewist.blogspot.com
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2007: purchased 115+, sewed 105+
So close to parity, yet so far

Trying again in 2008
Yards purchased: 133
Yards sewn: Somewhere around 95

2009? I give up
  
Member since 5/11/03
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Posted on: 6/18/14 2:23 PM ET
I use narrow (1/4") twill tape or fusible stay tape which don't add much bulk. Trimming the seam allowances helps too.Yes, you put in on the seam line to keep it from stretching out and gaping, particularly useful if the edge of the pocket is cut on the bias.
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Kim
  
Member since 8/24/02
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Posted on: 6/18/14 4:56 PM ET
In reply to Sewandwrite
There are nice photos of the process here. Sandra Betzina suggests snugging up the tape just a tiny bit, maybe 1/4 to 3/8 inch, to oppose stretching even more.
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Elona
  
Member since 2/12/06
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Posted on: 6/18/14 9:25 PM ET
I use a light weight fusible stay tape but also pull the top edge of the pocket 1/8" higher into the waist line to help control gaping.

Debbie
  
Member since 5/16/08
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Posted on: 6/19/14 3:33 PM ET
Lovely ideas and great information! Thank you.
  
Member since 5/31/11
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Posted on: 6/20/14 11:13 AM ET
You should check out an article in the new Threads, Issue 174 (I believe). In it, there is discussion and photos, showing using selvages.
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Annette
  
Member since 1/23/06
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Posted on: 6/20/14 12:12 PM ET
I measure the seam line on the pattern, minus seam allowances and cut my tape a short quarter inch shorter. I like to use selvedge from silky type fabrics as it is usually very thin and very strong. I pin it on and as I stitch the seam allowances together it gets sewn in. You could bast first if you want. This snugs up the edge a bit. When I pin the selvedge to the edge I use LOTS of pins, dividing the area to be pinned in half, in other words the next pin is placed in the middle of the two previously placed pins.

After stitching I iron on a ham to shape the area/edge
-- Edited on Today at 12:13 PM --
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Member since 10/11/08
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Posted on: 6/22/14 11:22 AM ET
Yep, the Threads article is good.
Silk Organza selvage is my choice :)
Maripat
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Learning-Alterations.com
  
Member since 5/16/08
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Posted on: 6/23/14 10:52 PM ET
In reply to Maripat
Quote: Maripat
Silk Organza selvage is my choice :)

Maripat

Oooh, I really like this suggestion. I have a piece of dark (but translucent) silk organza in my stash. Thanks!
  
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