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knit newbie. (Moderated by Deepika, Sharon1952)
Posted on: 7/28/05 4:41 AM ET
Hi,
I'm just starting to sew with knits. I have no serger, but after reading some posts on the message board I decided there was nothing holding me back from sewing them on my machine. One thing has got me flummoxed though.
How do I do an FBA in the pattern without introducing a horizontal dart? Or is it always necessary to have one?
Thank you
I'm just starting to sew with knits. I have no serger, but after reading some posts on the message board I decided there was nothing holding me back from sewing them on my machine. One thing has got me flummoxed though.
How do I do an FBA in the pattern without introducing a horizontal dart? Or is it always necessary to have one?Thank you
Posted on: 7/28/05 5:15 AM ET
I'm not full-busted, so I have very little personal FBA experience, but I do believe that a lot of people do regular FBAs in knits.
An alternative (I think I read about this in Marcy Tilton's book Sewing tops and T-shirts) is to add only length, only over the (front) bust (about 2 cm, I seem to recall), and then ease in the extra length when you construct the t-shirt. This would provide extra room over the bust, if you don't need a lot.
An alternative (I think I read about this in Marcy Tilton's book Sewing tops and T-shirts) is to add only length, only over the (front) bust (about 2 cm, I seem to recall), and then ease in the extra length when you construct the t-shirt. This would provide extra room over the bust, if you don't need a lot.
Posted on: 7/28/05 5:42 AM ET
You can make the horizontal dart and then ease it in if it's 1" deep or less. You can also transfer it to a vertical dart and then remove it at the side seam.
Posted on: 7/28/05 7:30 AM ET
Laura,
In addition to Gigi's advice (which is excellent, as usual), I'd encourage you to try darts in knits. I personally love darts in knits. I thought they'd really bother me, but they don't -- they give such a great fit. If you're using a patterned knit fabric, you won't even notice the dart ...
By the way, I'm a 32D/DD, so my bust adjustments range from small 1/2" darts to 2" darts, depending on the pattern and the look I want. I usually ease in small 1/2" darts, no matter what the fabric. I also have problems with gaping armholes (I have tiny shoulders and upper chest), so I often rotate darts to the armhole, which solves both the FBA and the gaping armhole problem.
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In addition to Gigi's advice (which is excellent, as usual), I'd encourage you to try darts in knits. I personally love darts in knits. I thought they'd really bother me, but they don't -- they give such a great fit. If you're using a patterned knit fabric, you won't even notice the dart ...
By the way, I'm a 32D/DD, so my bust adjustments range from small 1/2" darts to 2" darts, depending on the pattern and the look I want. I usually ease in small 1/2" darts, no matter what the fabric. I also have problems with gaping armholes (I have tiny shoulders and upper chest), so I often rotate darts to the armhole, which solves both the FBA and the gaping armhole problem.
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Jackie Mysak
Doula Web site: www.yourbirthpartner.com
Doula Web site: www.yourbirthpartner.com
Posted on: 7/28/05 7:52 AM ET
Jackie is so right. Unfortunately, most people shun the very thought of sewing a dart in a knit but for the full busted it sure does give a wonderful fit.
Posted on: 7/28/05 9:28 AM ET
With my last few projects, I used the method described by Åsa, with good results.
I've also had very good results with the method described in Sandra Betzina's Fast Fit. (Sorry, the slashes are too complicated to describe here--although the method itself is easy.)
I've used darts too, although lately I haven't done it because my darts in knits have been turning out "pointy". I'm not sure what causes this. (I've tried all the usual tricks.) It might be the fabrics I was using. But when they work, they are a lot less obvious than you might assume.
I've also had very good results with the method described in Sandra Betzina's Fast Fit. (Sorry, the slashes are too complicated to describe here--although the method itself is easy.)
I've used darts too, although lately I haven't done it because my darts in knits have been turning out "pointy". I'm not sure what causes this. (I've tried all the usual tricks.) It might be the fabrics I was using. But when they work, they are a lot less obvious than you might assume.
Posted on: 7/28/05 10:46 AM ET
I've read Fast Fit, and FFRP, but I was still too scared to try any fitting stuff...one of which I KNOW will be an FBA. And, most of the tops I like are knit tops, so that's what I'd be sewing most when I take the plunge and actually try to make one.
Easy question...how hard is it to add a dart...in any type of fabric? I've NEVER done any type of alteration before. Not even shortening or lengthening. Not even on my kids clothes (which I need to learn, too, since my kids are so dang skinny, and my oldest has legs up to her neck!)!!!
Since we can't afford books right now (although I may be able to use my 40% coupon on Fast Fit at Joann's), I'll keep my eye out on Ebay for those two. But, until then, I think I'll either have to hold off on sewing anything for myself, or have some real step-by-step instruction!
Easy question...how hard is it to add a dart...in any type of fabric? I've NEVER done any type of alteration before. Not even shortening or lengthening. Not even on my kids clothes (which I need to learn, too, since my kids are so dang skinny, and my oldest has legs up to her neck!)!!!
Since we can't afford books right now (although I may be able to use my 40% coupon on Fast Fit at Joann's), I'll keep my eye out on Ebay for those two. But, until then, I think I'll either have to hold off on sewing anything for myself, or have some real step-by-step instruction!
Posted on: 7/28/05 12:05 PM ET
First, if you are making a substantial alteration, FFRP is the best resource for adding/altering darts. It isn't difficult. It's kinda a long, involved process, but it's easy. The strength of FFRP is that it shows you how to it step by step to get more width, more length, and more shaping at the same time. Once you do a few, you will be able to do them in your sleep.
On knits, I use a dart. I add as much as 6 inches total, so I know what I'm talking about when I say a substantial alteration. I really prefer the darts because they give me the extra room up front where I need it, not at the sides.
When I do an alteration on a knit top, I use zero ease. I find that any more than that gives me a sack.
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On knits, I use a dart. I add as much as 6 inches total, so I know what I'm talking about when I say a substantial alteration. I really prefer the darts because they give me the extra room up front where I need it, not at the sides.
When I do an alteration on a knit top, I use zero ease. I find that any more than that gives me a sack.
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Neefer aka AgitProp and Village Churl Sewing Blog: http://www.oaktrees.org/blog/
Bonny lass, bonny lass, will you be mine?
You shall neither wash dishes nor serve the wine;
But sit on a cushion and sew a fine seam,
And feast upon strawberries, sugar, and cream.
Bonny lass, bonny lass, will you be mine?
You shall neither wash dishes nor serve the wine;
But sit on a cushion and sew a fine seam,
And feast upon strawberries, sugar, and cream.
Posted on: 7/28/05 12:08 PM ET
In reply to Neefer
Good to know! Thanks! Ebay has a couple of FFRP books, but they're all softback. I'd rather pay the couple of extra bucks, and have the spiral bound. Not to mention, the shipping is really cheap from the PP website (they're in Portland, I'm in Seattle).
Posted on: 7/28/05 2:14 PM ET
Thanks for your help guys. I have Fast Fit and FFRP and was going with the FFRP method. I am actually working the the Burda twist top at the moment and was trying to get away without having ease/a dart at the side seam by simply widening the top section and lowering the under-bust curve here to give length without adjusting the side. (This calls for a wider bottom section - which I need to cover my tummy!). This is the result: front, side. Not good, I know (and sorry for inflicting the view of my scuzzy bathroom on you!). It looks like I need more length as the shoulder seams are being dragged down. The under-bust-ruching-legs (?) are binding and I think this is because, whilst I added width all the way down the left part, I didn't widen these leg things too, and so they are too short.
I've now re-traced the pattern and have done an FFRP FBA and am planning to put the new 'dart' into side gathers: click here. Do you think this will work OK? I also need to widen the 'under-bust-ruching-leg'
I'm a bit sad that I've wasted some nice fabric, (not that I haven't wasted metres in the past!) but I had bought it to use for practice.
I've now re-traced the pattern and have done an FFRP FBA and am planning to put the new 'dart' into side gathers: click here. Do you think this will work OK? I also need to widen the 'under-bust-ruching-leg'
I'm a bit sad that I've wasted some nice fabric, (not that I haven't wasted metres in the past!) but I had bought it to use for practice.
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