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Member since 1/29/13
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Posted on: 8/12/14 3:26 PM ET
OK, admittedly I'm more of a "quilter" than a "sewist" but I wanted a break from quilting and I want some clothing. So maybe I'm missing something here ...

I'm making this shirt and so far I've really enjoyed it, but the collar has boggled my mind. I've never done a collar before, so I took photos of the pattern pieces and the instructions and sent them to my mom for help, and even SHE couldn't figure it out. Then I thought maybe someone here could interpret this for me. LOL

First of all, the instruction sheet makes it look like there's a pleat in the collar, which clearly cannot be, right? But it LOOKS like it ...



But also, there is the little issue of the notches, which don't appear on the collar pattern piece. They ARE on the collar BAND but not the collar itself ...



So I'm not exactly sure how to align the collar to the band, because a) the collar in the instruction drawing looks folded, and b) there aren't any notches on the collar. I sent an email to Butterick and the chick that replied said that there are definitely notches on the collar piece and that I must have just missed marking them, to which I replied that there definitely are NOT notches and I didn't miss a thing. I sent her the photo of the collar pattern piece with no notches.

I'm waiting on them to get back to me, but I would really like to get this shirt made now instead of two days from now. Anyone made this one before that can help me understand what the heck I'm supposed to do??

TIA!
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Posted on: 8/12/14 4:49 PM ET
There is no collar pleat...there's just more collar than band.

After stitching the collar to the collar facing and turning, you sandwich the collar between the collar band and facing and stitch.
Trim and clip and all that and then edge stitch the facing in place.
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Janome Skyline S3 | Singer Quantum Stylist 9985 | Singer Stylist 7258 | Kenmore 1503
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My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14 | Pants 16 | Skirts 16
My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 33 UB | 32 W | 43 Hip

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Posted on: 8/12/14 4:50 PM ET
Oh and be aware that your collar band is slightly longer than your collar -- that part of the illustration is accurate.

Do you have a collared shirt at home you can look at? That helped me a ton when I made my first button front shirt.
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Janome Skyline S3 | Singer Quantum Stylist 9985 | Singer Stylist 7258 | Kenmore 1503
Baby Lock Celebrate | Brother 2340CV
My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14 | Pants 16 | Skirts 16
My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 33 UB | 32 W | 43 Hip

http://dressmakingdebacles.blogspot.com
  
Member since 5/2/09
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Posted on: 8/12/14 5:30 PM ET
In reply to Skratchie
There are no pleats in the collar, but since it's normally round, when it's just worn around your neck, they just show it rippling there in the middle only when stretched out flat like that instead. As it probably would look (a bit like that) then. So that is what that is supposed to show, not any real pleats or tucks at all.

I do see some notches on the collar band. They are all those "over lapping triangles" set back in from the edge of your bottom shown pattern piece there. But you only want to use one of them, in the whole row of them. Just the one that matches up to the size of the shirt, you cut out and are making.There are just a bunch of them there overlapping instead, just since it's a multi-sized pattern. Since they did not print that on the actual edge of the collar band there, and further in instead, I would still make the outward notch only past the pattern piece into the waste fabric there though. Those notches are probably going to match up to the neck line of the shirt someplace, either with a notch there, or maybe just the shoulder seam even.

I can't see more of it, but my guess is they have you first sew collar peices together, trim , grade, turn inside out and press, then have one of each collar band sewn onto each side of that, and then the remaining free edge of the under collar-collar band attached to the shirt neckline, and that would bring you up to about, where your instruction scan starts.

Hope this helps some.

I think you need to get on the actual telephone with your Mom though, and make her stay on the phone with you, while you are pinning things together though. That would probably help her, to help you, a whole bunch. At least you would have 2-way communication going on then. Just sending her a partial scan of something, could make it pretty difficult for her to help you just from some text or a email.

Also maybe both of you could actually download Skype into a computer someplace, and use something like that. It's pretty good for those kinds of things too.



  
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Posted on: 8/12/14 6:39 PM ET
I can't see all of the collar band pattern piece, but I suspect there are small dots at the upper outside corner of the band, just outside of your picture. Match those with the small dots on the collar itself. Do this with the paper pieces if necessary. Walk the pieces together and it will probably be clear.

I also sometimes put a teeny notch on pattern pieces (on the fabric when I cut it out) for center front or center back. You can do that for both the collar band and the collar itself (which will be center back of course, at least on this pattern), which will also help you line things up properly. For pieces that you cut on the fold put the notch on the fold.


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Posted on: 8/12/14 6:44 PM ET
Also, if by "notch" you mean those triangles, the piece is upside down in your picture, the triangles match something in the body of the shirt, not on the collar.

Get the pattern pieces for the shirt back, the collar band, and the collar, and line them all up as they would be worn. Line up center back on each piece (again, if cut on the fold, center back is the fold) and the symbols... I think it will be more clear


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Viking Ruby
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Member since 1/29/13
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Posted on: 8/12/14 7:21 PM ET
Thanks for all the replies.

MsC - Yes, I did go look at a shirt in my closet with a collar band and collar and it made a lot more sense when I did. LOL I came to that conclusion just before you posted - go see if you have something in the closet that will show you how it's done. ;-)

As for the notches, there ARE supposed to be notches on the collar to match to the band, but they didn't get translated on to the plus size pattern. Once I sent the photos to Butterick, the girl that was helping me immediately saw it and said she would have them regrade the pattern and email me a scan of it. So hopefully, the corrected pattern piece will be in my inbox tomorrow.

Even with this glitch, this shirt has been a very pleasant experience. I hope to repeat it again soon!
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Brother Stellaire XJ1, 1034D, Pacesetter Cover Stitch 2340CV
Bernina 770QE Kaffe, 570QE, 435, L890QE

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Posted on: 8/12/14 8:15 PM ET
In reply to Skratchie
"Once I sent the photos to Butterick, the girl that was helping me immediately saw it and said she would have them regrade the pattern and email me a scan of it. So hopefully, the corrected pattern piece will be in my inbox tomorrow."

Wow!
That's really cool that they responded with a real person who could actually help you. That makes me feel a little better about the lack of 'errata' for pattern copy mistakes in the sewing industry.
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Posted on: 8/13/14 11:32 AM ET
I knew there were real people at the pattern companies! Good to know they are helpful Skratchie. Good luck on finishing your shirt.
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Posted on: 8/13/14 11:55 AM ET
In reply to Skratchie
NICE!

McCall really seems to be stepping up it's customer service lately!
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Janome Skyline S3 | Singer Quantum Stylist 9985 | Singer Stylist 7258 | Kenmore 1503
Baby Lock Celebrate | Brother 2340CV
My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14 | Pants 16 | Skirts 16
My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 33 UB | 32 W | 43 Hip

http://dressmakingdebacles.blogspot.com
  
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