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Member since 3/8/14
Posts: 22
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Posted on: 9/2/14 4:58 PM ET
Hello everyone,

I've just found this forum and i am in AWE of the knowledge held by this amazing community!! I'm looking for some help with the wedding gown i am making for myself! I am designing it myself and as a designer this is my greatest challenge yet. I am my own worst customer! Sorry if this post is long, I'll get to the point. BTW this is my first post on one of these forums and I'm not entirely sure the images are going to work. If they don't i'll try again tomorrow!!

1. this is my toile / muslin moulage so far..
Moulage without bodice overlay

toile back details

here is the sketch of the basic silhouette I'm aiming for
sketch of garment

and here is how its fitting so far
fit front

and the back
fit back

QUESTION 1
Do i extend the boning down to hip level to smooth out the lumps and bumps I'm getting below the waist?

QUESTION 2
I think i have a short 'sway??' back should i shorten the skirt at the back or take the fullness out of the bodice at the back waist?

QUESTION 3
these are the fabrics I'm using
Fabrics image

I want to keep the translucency in the skirt (to a degree) i was planning on interlining the embroidered tulle with ivory or white organza and alternately overlapping the satin flowers where the seams fall in the six panel skirt. Will the seams of the organza show through enough to be unsightly? I've eliminated the seams on the white tulle overskirt and inserted godets and godet stays to add fullness without layers, but i would like the embroidered skirt to be very figure fitting at the hip and then a full mermaid at the hem and didn't want to do this without seams??
Then I'm wondering how to line the skirt without the seams of the lining showing through. Should i underline the floral embroidered tulle with something more substantial and loose the translucency??

WWYD??

Thanks in advance for any advice you can offer,

Yours

Toria
Based in Cheshire in the United Kingdom
  
Member since 3/8/14
Posts: 22
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Posted on: 9/2/14 5:05 PM ET
sketch didn't work...here it is..Sketch of silhouette
  
Member since 10/6/11
Posts: 2383
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Posted on: 9/3/14 9:27 AM ET
In reply to Fridayschild
Congratulations on your upcoming wedding!

I love all the pictures you have included!

I'm not able to answer all of your questions at the moment (brain needs to digest it all)... but a few that jump out:

[ ] Boning should not go passed your front hip bone (where you leg creases when you lift it), and the sides and back bones should not go passed the apexs of your hip/bum mounds (otherwise you might get the ends poking outward)

[ ] The back horizontal gathers at the small of your waist... I would check first to see if your side seam is hanging perfectly straight. If it is, then you do indeed have too much fabric at the small of your waist that could be pinched out. If you side seam is pulling to the back, then I would say you do not have enough room for your bum and the waist fabric is crashing at the small of your waist because is hung up there. In hat case, I would increase the back hip area, possibly taking deeper darts from waist to booty.
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-Catina
PaTTernHack.com
  
Member since 5/31/11
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Posted on: 9/3/14 12:23 PM ET
Congratulations on your upcoming wedding, and lots of luck with the making of your wedding gown!
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Annette
  
Member since 6/4/07
Posts: 271
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Posted on: 9/4/14 9:55 AM ET
In reply to Fridayschild
What Catina sez.

I would second the boning answer. The buckling fabric on your derriere looks to be caused by fit issues; even if you do extand the boning further down (which you shouldn't), the boning would only hide the issues, not fix it.
  
Member since 10/26/07
Posts: 617
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Posted on: 9/11/14 1:49 AM ET
I just want to lift the back of the skirt at the waist-the hip is not fitting over your hips so if you pinch out that extra material at the center to the side seams it will raise the curve.I can't tell if the zip is collapsing from too much fabric or being pulled off center by the back hip in the wrong place.Measure the width of your own waist in the back,the length to the fullest part of the back hip from the waist.You may be narrow in this area and possibly tilted. The translucency is going to get lost in the bodice if you want fitted because you will need understructure in something stiffer than a layer of organza.On the skirt which is full I think the seams will not be noticeable if you match the colors of the the skirt lining layers well
  
Member since 3/26/09
Posts: 213
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Posted on: 9/11/14 3:11 AM ET
I agree with not extending boning further than your waist. Why? When you sit down it does funny things. (I found the whole dress wanted to move up. Uncomfortable and looks weird)
It's one thing you don't really think of when fitting a wedding dress - but you do sit quite a bit during the reception, so you want that to be comfortable too.
  
Member since 3/8/14
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Posted on: 9/14/14 9:04 AM ET
thanks for all the advice here are some more pictures - I have firmed up the zippers so you can get a clearer view of what is going on, the top and skirt are not attached and the skirt is wanting to sit just over a cm (maybe half an inch) higher than the actual seam line on the bodice. In my opinion the side seams are straight??

Back side View 2

Back side view

Side view

front view

CATINA ..
Would you suggest I increase the vertical Waist to hip measurement on the pattern? or from side seam to side seam? When you say take a deeper dart would i drop the apex (point) or the width of the dart.?

I am 5ft 10 inches tall i'm wondering if this is why my standard block isn't fitting? I don't normally made anything so fitted so I've never really had this issue before!!

Thanks for all your help, its so much easier fitting on someone else!!

Toria
  
Member since 3/8/14
Posts: 22
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Posted on: 9/14/14 9:36 AM ET
More pics..starting to think I'm a REALLY odd shape!! This is what it all hangs like when i pin the waist seam line to seam line according to pattern..

Side Back Pinned at seam

Side view pinned at seam

Back view pinned at seam

  
Member since 3/8/14
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Posted on: 10/14/14 7:52 AM ET
ANYONE???
  
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