Sponsors
Sponsors
stitch quality issues (Moderated by Deepika, Sharon1952)
Posted on: 2/13/15 6:52 PM ET
My most recent make was a button down shirt using cotton voile and I found that no matter what I adjusted or which needle I tried, the stitches just didn't seem "straight". It was like they were a little bit wavy. I though maybe the thread I was using was maybe too thick for the fabric (guuterman poly thread) or something. It looks like the the needle thread is "waving" in and out of the bobbin thread, the tension seems balanced in that I'm not seeind theread loops from the bobbin on top or vice versa. But it just doesn't look as nice and perfect as I'd like it to.
Have you ever had this issue? What did you do to fix it?
Have you ever had this issue? What did you do to fix it?
Posted on: 2/13/15 8:08 PM ET
In reply to Liamsmama
On thin,sheer, nice expensive cotton voile; I would probably be making some 1920's like reproduction of something or a blouse, and not your shirt in particular, but I would probably be using a real small needle like a sharp Schmetz size 12 or even a size 9/10, and I personally would be using kind of extra thin all cotton or cotton covered polyester thread just for that one thing, not even all polyester thread and it would be thinner than the more normal 40 or so weight garment sewing thread on some spools of it actually. And smaller tighter straight stitches than normal.
That is only how I like to sew on that fabric though, everyone likes different things. But I think for thread, some Coats and Clark DMC Broder 50 weight all cotton thread (and it is from France) of all the threads I got would be the one I would pick, but at and in Hancocks or maybe Joann's fabric big chain fabric stores thread displays there I would grab some Coats & Clark Dual Duty XP Fine kind of thread even if was polyester. The Guterman sew all kind of polyester thread there, would be too thick for me for that fabric really And too thick for my extra small needles I would probably want to use. But if at some quilt shop instead, I would probably grab maybe some Aurifil 50wt Mako Cotton Thread, or something like that even for it. The actual brand name on it, some thread or needles, would not be what was important to me at all actually, but cotton and not polyester and thinner thread than normal, small stitches and small sharp needles, is what would be instead actually. Cotton makes really nice button holes though on thin cotton, I think better than any polyester thread. But, that is just what I would use under kind of optimal circumstances for cotton voile, you can for sure, get away with all sorts of other stuff too I think.
That is only how I like to sew on that fabric though, everyone likes different things. But I think for thread, some Coats and Clark DMC Broder 50 weight all cotton thread (and it is from France) of all the threads I got would be the one I would pick, but at and in Hancocks or maybe Joann's fabric big chain fabric stores thread displays there I would grab some Coats & Clark Dual Duty XP Fine kind of thread even if was polyester. The Guterman sew all kind of polyester thread there, would be too thick for me for that fabric really And too thick for my extra small needles I would probably want to use. But if at some quilt shop instead, I would probably grab maybe some Aurifil 50wt Mako Cotton Thread, or something like that even for it. The actual brand name on it, some thread or needles, would not be what was important to me at all actually, but cotton and not polyester and thinner thread than normal, small stitches and small sharp needles, is what would be instead actually. Cotton makes really nice button holes though on thin cotton, I think better than any polyester thread. But, that is just what I would use under kind of optimal circumstances for cotton voile, you can for sure, get away with all sorts of other stuff too I think.
Posted on: 2/13/15 9:49 PM ET
In reply to Liamsmama
You can try using tissue paper under your fabric as you sew. It usually works for me.
------
------
Stash: 188 yds. @ 11.25.18
Bernina 560
Babylock Imagine
Babylock Coverstitch
Bernina 560
Babylock Imagine
Babylock Coverstitch
Posted on: 2/13/15 11:50 PM ET
Try increasing the pressure foot pressure if it's adjustable.
------
Absolutely loving my Janome 500e embroidery machine, very creative. Problem with all my stash for clothing!
------
Absolutely loving my Janome 500e embroidery machine, very creative. Problem with all my stash for clothing!
Posted on: 2/14/15 0:53 AM ET
I agree with the choice of cotton thread. I use Mettler/Metrosene cotton thread, but DMC would be a great choice too.
Posted on: 2/14/15 2:01 PM ET
I sew for dolls so I run into this a lot-- I find what helps me the most (after I play with the tension) is using a finer, sharper needle. I like Schmetz Microtex 60/8 -- my absolute fave!
------

------
“Guilty feelings about clothes are totally unnecessary. A lot of people earn their living by making clothes, so you should never feel bad.” --Karl Lagerfeld (this counts for fabric too, right?)
Posted on: 2/14/15 2:13 PM ET
IIRC, David Page Coffin's book on shirtmaking suggests a fine cotton thread like Mettler 60/2wt. DMC (50wt.) cotton would be fine, too. Both are what a lot of heirloom sewers use on batiste, voile & lawn. And a smaller size sharp needle like 65 or 70.
------
------
iPad's auto-correct is my enema.
Posted on: 2/14/15 3:23 PM ET
Hmm ok, I guess it was probably the thread I'll have to find a finer thread for the next project. I tried a microtex 60/9 needle and a universal 70/10 and a ballpoint 70/10 needle (just for kicks) and the universal 70/10 seemed the best, though I would have tried a microtex/sharp 70/10 if I had one on hand. I still have about a half meter left so the next time I come across some finer thread I'll try it out
Posted on: 2/14/15 7:13 PM ET
In reply to Liamsmama
I'd use a small needle a 65 or 70 and cotton embroidery thread which is two ply instead of three and strong enough for your shirt. The only brand I've ever found around here is metrosene. (sic?)
Mettler is the brand I was thinking of.
-- Edited on 2/14/15 at 9:42 PM --
------
Mettler is the brand I was thinking of.
-- Edited on 2/14/15 at 9:42 PM --
------
www.nancyksews.blogspot.com
Posted on: 2/14/15 8:22 PM ET
I agree also. I would use a size ten microtex needle and a size 60-80 100% cotton embroidery thread. I think you will find this will make a big difference. I also recommend french seams.
------
------
http://lasewist.blogspot.com/
* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it.
Selected Reviews, Classes & Patterns







