Sponsors
Sponsors
Posted on: 4/11/15 10:40 PM ET
This is my most recent draft using Suzy Furrers pants drafting craftsy class. I'm pretty happy with the front/crotch, there's a bit of weirdness but my final pants will have a lowered waist no darts and slash pockets, so I'm sure it will be unnoticeable. The thighs are still a bit too tight but where do I add to help get rid of those wrinkles on the back of my leg? photos here
Posted on: 4/11/15 11:06 PM ET
I am no expert - so please ignore me if you don't agree
- look at your side seam - from mid thigh to your waist - the back is pulling - you need more room in the back horizontally, width and more vertically, crotch length - is this a muslin ? Can you sit in these pants ?
If it is a muslin split the seams in you back crotch and side seams from mid thigh to half way between waist and hip. Pin in extra fabric where ithe split seams tell you you need it. That is what I have done in the past.
I agree the front looks really good - but this may change a little once the side seams are straight.
I hope this helps - I am sure someone with more knowledge will come along.
Tanya
- look at your side seam - from mid thigh to your waist - the back is pulling - you need more room in the back horizontally, width and more vertically, crotch length - is this a muslin ? Can you sit in these pants ?
If it is a muslin split the seams in you back crotch and side seams from mid thigh to half way between waist and hip. Pin in extra fabric where ithe split seams tell you you need it. That is what I have done in the past.
I agree the front looks really good - but this may change a little once the side seams are straight.
I hope this helps - I am sure someone with more knowledge will come along.
Tanya
Posted on: 4/12/15 0:12 AM ET
I see what you're talking about with the side seams now that you mention it, I don't think its pulling, I think it's because I followed a few different drafting instructions in order to try to get a better fit from the first draft. This one has the back waist/hips 3/8" smaller than the front rather than the usual 1/4" putting the side seam further back and then the legs are still 1" larger than the front bringing the side seam forward again, so I think this is what is making the side seam curve a bit, so I'll add to the back and take from the front a bit to straighten it out.
This is a muslin and yes I can sit in them, but I agree I might need a little more crotch length in the back so I will add a wedge in back
This is a muslin and yes I can sit in them, but I agree I might need a little more crotch length in the back so I will add a wedge in back
Posted on: 4/12/15 7:55 AM ET
In reply to Liamsmama
What style of trouser are you aiming for?
They look too tight, and as already mentioned, the side seam is being pulled into a curve. They also look like they are giving you a wedgie!
Without seeing your pattern, i'd guess that you need more in the back fork to increase the thigh diameter.
You need a bit more length cb as well:
Check to see if the centre back and waist line intersect at 90 degrees and if not you could raise that point so it does, which will add a bit of length to the back. The other option is to open up a small wedge in cb at the hip line to increase the angle of the cb line and add some length.
More at the hip:
You could redraw the back side seam starting from nothing at the knee coming out at least 1/2" at the hip, maybe more, and as you continue this line up to the waist level, do not try to rejoin your original line. You may gain enough fabric at the waist to take out in another dart. So you may need/have a two dart back.
It is so much easier to pin out a little excess than guess at how much more to add in a too tight garment!
------
They look too tight, and as already mentioned, the side seam is being pulled into a curve. They also look like they are giving you a wedgie!
Without seeing your pattern, i'd guess that you need more in the back fork to increase the thigh diameter.
You need a bit more length cb as well:
Check to see if the centre back and waist line intersect at 90 degrees and if not you could raise that point so it does, which will add a bit of length to the back. The other option is to open up a small wedge in cb at the hip line to increase the angle of the cb line and add some length.
More at the hip:
You could redraw the back side seam starting from nothing at the knee coming out at least 1/2" at the hip, maybe more, and as you continue this line up to the waist level, do not try to rejoin your original line. You may gain enough fabric at the waist to take out in another dart. So you may need/have a two dart back.
It is so much easier to pin out a little excess than guess at how much more to add in a too tight garment!
------
http://atailormadeit.blogspot.ca/
Posted on: 4/12/15 8:22 AM ET
In reply to Liamsmama
Here's my take: You have a low butt, so do I. Let out those side seams to release the back. Might want to add a bit to the crotch points. I've found that straightening my front crotch helps eliminate some of the butt wedgie. If those things don't do the trick, I agree that a center back wedge, to bring the curve lower, might help.
Posted on: 4/12/15 8:26 AM ET
I am working through this class also. No suggestions but want to tell you they are looking great.
Posted on: 4/12/15 8:54 AM ET
Attach a waistband or facing as that will change the overall fit.
Posted on: 4/12/15 8:56 AM ET
If you are in the class, have you posted this there? What did Suzy Furrer say?
Posted on: 4/12/15 8:58 AM ET
In reply to Liamsmama
Those are looking pretty good. I think the pants are too tight-you have front wrinkles mid body and back seat. Can you sit down and move comfortably in those? I think loosening up side seams might be enough room if you want a tighter pant. The wrinkles in the back are really not bad-they might loosen up too if you let out the side seams.
Posted on: 4/12/15 9:52 AM ET
If these are the "sloper" remember to make a trouser that you will take this and add ease for that style. I agree Suzy can give you a quick fix on your sloper, she can see the fixes needed.
------
------
Dawn T.
* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it.
Selected Reviews, Classes & Patterns







