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Posted on: 4/15/15 9:38 PM ET
Hi, I posted here a couple of days ago and I think I have come a long way in the process (hopefully) since then.

I decided to make the Thread Theory Jutland pants for DH. I had alot of trouble with the crotch pulling and it does on his RTW anyway. After a bit of thought I did the obvious and compared the pattern with the RTW that fit well.

I measured the actual paper pattern and his comfortable pants. There is 2 & 3/4 inches difference in the front rise and 3/8" difference in the back crotch. The waistbands are the same width so for now I haven't added that width in as it's easier.

Now, I need to add the 2 3/4" length to front crotch and haven't ever had to add that much before to ladies and have never made men's pants.

He is big in the thigh all the way to the knee. Actually his thighs touch all the way to the knee. I'm thinking I could add perhaps the 3/4" to the fork all the way down the inseam and then add the remaining 2" to the front rise?

Can anyone advise me if I can add 2" to the front rise as I'm worried that the front will sort of "tip upwards" being as much as it is. Or will it just sort of fall down into place?

Thanks in advance
Sue


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Posted on: 4/15/15 11:05 PM ET
In reply to rag doll
I'd approach it one of two ways.

As far as adding to the crotch point for the full thighs. If you haven't done something similar I'd take a muslin and split the middle of the upper thigh down to the knee. Have him try them on and measure the spread at the widest part. That will give you a better idea of exactly how much to add. That may help reduce the amount to add to the front rise. That's also a bit more of an accurate amount that possibly picking out a number, unless you've measured something to give you the figure of 3/4".

Since you need to add to the back and the front I'd add the 3/8" that you need to add to the back to the total rise front and back by cutting perpendicular to the grain and adding it to the rise, maybe 4-5" below the top of the pant. Technically that will reduce the extra that you need to add to the front to 2 3/8".

As far as adding the remainder you don't want to add it right at the top of the rise. Then the waist will just tip upward. I'd make a series of slashes ( 3-4 ) perpendicular to the grain line from cf to but not through the ss and spread equal amounts at each slash. Doing it that way won't distort the cf as much as slashing it and adding it all in one spot. You'll end up with little "jogs" in the cf after slashing and spreading. Just use a straight edge and straighten the cf from the original cut line before the first slash to the top of the pant.

Once all that's done you'll have to redraft all the front pieces, pockets, fly shield etc.

Personally before I went to the trouble of redrafting all the pieces I'd do another muslin to make sure they fit right!

Debbie
  
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Posted on: 4/16/15 0:31 AM ET
In reply to simplystitches
Quote:
Since you need to add to the back and the front I'd add the 3/8" that you need to add to the back to the total rise front and back.

Thanks Debbie, I'm just not understanding the above very well. Sorry can you tell me what you mean? Also....
Technically that will reduce the extra that you need to add to the front to 2 3/8".

I'm probably daft but where did the 3/8" go from the 2 3/4" needed for the front. I see that 3/8" is what I need to add to the back but I need both 2 3/4" Front and 3/8" back ?

Thanks
Sue
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Posted on: 4/16/15 1:00 AM ET
Think of it this way. Hopefully it'll make more sense.

While I haven't actually seen the pattern pieces I've seen them in blog posts. They appear to be drafted higher in the back with a sloped waistline that works to a lower front. With that in mind if you add just the amounts you need front and back more than likely you'll end up with a dip at the ss.

You could also say the entire crotch depth is 3/8' too short. Depth is waist to crotch measurement. When you add to the depth you add to the crotch length. Crotch length being the measurement of the crotch curve. If you add that amount all the way around you'd then remove the 3/8" from the amount you need to add to the front crotch length which is where the 2 3/8" came in. 2 3/8 plus 3/8 is 2 3/4.

Hopefully I understood your question correctly.

Debbie




-- Edited on 4/16/15 at 1:13 AM --
  
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Posted on: 4/16/15 1:33 AM ET
In reply to simplystitches
[/QUOTE]With that in mind if you add just the amounts you need front and back more than likely you'll end up with a dip at the ss.

Got that bit, hadn't thought of that....yes it makes sense now. thanks!

Just to clarify, I am adding 3/8 to the rise all the way around.

I need to lengthen the front crotch by a total now of 2 3/8"

I measure the amount I need for the large thigh using the slash method. Say it's 1 inch at the widest.

2 3/8" - 1" (added to crotch point) = 1 3/8"

Lenghthen the front crotch by slashing perpendicular in about 4 places and spread in total 1 3/8". True up the jogs.

Hopefully I have got it!
Thanks
Sue
-- Edited on 4/16/15 at 2:07 AM --
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Posted on: 4/16/15 8:29 AM ET
In reply to rag doll
Bingo! That's exactly how I would do it.

The only thing you might want to check after altering is how the ss matchs up at the waist. You may still have a slight dip since you're adding so much in the front and need to fill in or reshape the seam line so it's a smooth transition.

Debbie

  
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Posted on: 4/16/15 9:05 AM ET
In reply to simplystitches
Thanks a million Debbie!

Sue
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Posted on: 4/16/15 12:08 PM ET
Can I ask why not simply copy the comfortable RTW to create the basic front and back pieces (I.e., the fitting part, at least from the thighs up, that you could tweak minimally as necessary, then use more or less as is for all future pants in any style) and then use the Jutland pattern only for the details? I haven't seen the Jutland pattern, but from the pix it doesn't look like the basic pieces are that distinctive, besides being not "slim-fitting"...?

No doubt I'm missing something:)
dpc
  
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Posted on: 4/16/15 9:21 PM ET
In reply to David Coffin
Hi David, you are so right. Why didn't I? I use blocks for all of my clothes and just add details! This would have saved hours of grief.

I think why I didn't do as you suggest was that I focused on the loose fit without the pleat and that appealed to me. When I finally started to compare the RTW against the Jutland the only real difference is the pleat in front and as you say the easily added details.

DH is more comfortable with a pleat as there's room for the large thigh. It seems that RTW men's pants in OZ are hard to get with a pleat and aren't really fashionable at the moment. I thought I should probably make the "fashionable thing". Which leads me to wonder If rather than messing with the large thigh alteration, I should just do a pleat and make what I know works for him.....he likes smart pants but at the same time doesn't follow fashion!

Talking of details, I'm taking your Craftsy class and I'm only at the pocket details stage of the class so far. The idea was to make the pants using the class to guide me!

Regards
Sue
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Posted on: 4/16/15 10:16 PM ET
In reply to rag doll
Well, how cool is that, Sue:) Thanks for taking my class!

Again just judging from the Jutland photos online, it seems like they're purposely cut quite full, very much straight-leg working pants, with not much shaping on the main vertical seams. Is that what you've seen when comparing them to the RTW? Makes me wonder if you could pin out the pleat and add a little extra width to the front and/or back side and inseams, tapering out from the waist, then either shooting straight down to the hem, or tapering back in around the knee, to get a pleat-less compromise, if that still seems worth pursuing.

I hope my class will offer some detail help. There's nothing in it on patch pockets, though, for which I'd certainly make a stiff-paper pressing template, without seam allowances, to simplify forming both patches identically.

I'm intrigued with your mix-it-up approach on these Jutlands; it sounds exactly like how I always proceed, a little from here, a little from there:) Please feel free to post more questions on this project, if any come up, to me directly, here, or at Craftsy—or all three! Might as well take advantage of the vast assembled wisdom at patternreview!

I've also noticed there's a bunch of typically well-done Jutland sew-alongs at Thread Theory. I'm quite impressed with those guys; they seem like archetypal exemplars of the new entrepreneurial "sewists", who I find, as a group, very exciting for our craft. (Esp. when they seem willing to imagine that anybody over 40 could possibly know anything worth knowing:))

dpc
  
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