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Member since 2/17/08
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Posted on: 4/18/15 4:46 PM ET
I'm working on a pair of cigarette pants. I can tell that they are not fitting correctly in the crotch, but I was hoping someone could look at this picture and tell me what leaps out to them as the first place to start making adjustments? Thank you!!


-- Edited on 4/18/15 at 4:47 PM --
-- Edited on 4/18/15 at 4:48 PM --
  
Member since 8/28/08
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Posted on: 4/18/15 5:02 PM ET
Two things pop out: 1) there is not enough circumference all the way up through the waist shown by all of those pull lines and 2) the front crotch length is too long.
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Member since 2/17/08
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Posted on: 4/18/15 5:11 PM ET
Thank you! So should I start by adjusting the side seams and the crotch depth in the front (or in both the front and the back)?
  
Member since 12/28/04
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Posted on: 4/18/15 5:16 PM ET
In reply to tunibell
Let out the side seam first, then pull up the pants until the crotch is just touching your body. Use an elastic at the waist to keep the pants up where they need to be. If the front crotch is still not right it's the shape of the crotch not matching your body. Mark the crotch seam on the wrong side then rip the stitching at the front crotch. Try them on inside out and pin it to match your shape. Stitch it up and try it on. You may have to do this more than once. Also, clip the curve to release any tension in the seam.
-- Edited on 4/18/15 at 5:17 PM --
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Posted on: 4/18/15 5:36 PM ET
In reply to tunibell
Definitely need more width and what really jumps out is that the crotch is too long for you.
However before you go and try to fix that I would let out the side seams and see what happens.
I do not clip the curve in the crotch but if you do be very careful as you may end up with a clip where you don't want it or have the fabric fray.
If you start altering the crotch keep in mind that this can result in reduced circumference so really best to start with the side seams.
Just in case you don't see how this would work - draw the crotch (u shape) and the side lines then start making the crotch shorter in your sketch and see what is happening between the crotch line and side seam line - less fabric to go round the body.
Hope you can get this worked out - pants are really difficult to fit but am sure you'll get there.
  
Member since 2/17/08
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Posted on: 4/19/15 0:04 AM ET
Okay. Here's round two.

I added a full 1/4 inch to each side seam. They definitely feel roomier, but the wrinkles are still there.



Here's a pic of the back after adding the 1" to the circumference:


Should I try to adjust the crotch length next? Add more to the side seams?
  
Member since 3/19/05
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Posted on: 4/19/15 0:21 AM ET
In reply to tunibell
I would undo the side seams from just above the hip and see what is needed to smooth the legs - I think you need more room right down the side - just an opinion - maybe others will chime in.
  
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Posted on: 4/19/15 1:14 AM ET
I think the smile lines are because you need more fabric width- but you need the width at the front crotch area, not at the side seems. To get more material at the crotch you need to reduce the amount of scoop of the front crotch curve. Keep the length measurement the same, but change the crotch curve to be straighter, more perpendicular to the grain line. I hope this helps.
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Member since 12/2/08
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Posted on: 4/19/15 1:23 AM ET
Get out a pair of RTW pants, turn them inside out, and see how short that front crotch is. It is usually significantly shorter than patterns have. If the RTW fit you decently, use it as a guide.
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Member since 10/11/08
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Posted on: 4/19/15 10:49 AM ET
This is the third thread I am watching that mentions "scooping out the crotch". Weird. This is the first where I read that it means to "flatten out the curve".
This crotch thing is confusing to me. Is this something tunibell can do to these existing pants, or do you mean to reshape the curve on the pattern and start over?
My perspective is more for ready to wear, as I do alterations, but I am trying to improve my skill at reading wrinkles and I see these horizontal lines frequently.
Maripat
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