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Posted on: 6/18/15 12:29 PM ET
In my parachute quality control background, we used stitches per inch exclusively to control stitch length. The military uses the same thing.

However, I've noticed a number of posts on this forum where stitch length is referred to by a single digit, such as "set your stitch length at 3." Am I correct in thinking that this is fairly universal on more modern machines, and is maybe the length of each stitch in millimeters? All the machines I've ever used have stitch length regulators that have no numbers at all, or are in stitches per inch.

Thanks!

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Posted on: 6/18/15 1:43 PM ET
In reply to Al Johnson
FWIW, a stitch length of '3' can be different on different models and brands of machine. When I reeeally need to know, I mark a one-inch distance on project fabric, run some stitches, and measure.
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Posted on: 6/18/15 1:52 PM ET
My standard stitch length 3, 2.5 and below is too small and you risk puckering. I have used 4 for topstitching, but I don't think it is significantly different from 3.
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Posted on: 6/18/15 2:01 PM ET
In reply to Al Johnson
I'm interested to know also. I just tested some samples on my Janome 11000 and a length of 3 is not 3 mm, and 4 is not 4 mm. It's actually closer to 32nds of an inch ( a length of 3 is close to 3/32", but even that isn't exactly right… so maybe it is an arbitrary number - still, it must equal something? I do like that feature on my older mechanical machines where it's measured in stitches per inch - at least it's consistent.
  
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Posted on: 6/18/15 2:04 PM ET
In reply to Al Johnson
On my vintage machine, the one I use the most, the stitch length dial goes from 6-12. That is the number of stitches per inch. On my newer computerized machine, the numbers are 2-5, or there abouts. I don't really know what that refers to. I just think of those numbers as meaningless reference numbers. Sort of like pattern sizes. All I know is that if I want a longer stitch, I choose a higher number. Really the opposite of the vintage machine.

I would like to know what those numbers mean also.
  
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Posted on: 6/18/15 2:44 PM ET
It must actually mean *something,* but it could be highly esoteric! (Frex, I just learned from a Nancy Zieman book that the M on a serger stitch-width dial refers to "marrowing," or the RTW industry process of serging 1/4" seams.)

According to For Dummies, the number is supposed to be millimeters; but they also indicate that stitch length is determined by the distance moved by the feed dogs during each stitch. Is it possible that the feed dogs could move 3 mm, but not produce a stitch 3mm long? I will say that I quickly did a search for "stitch length" on the Threads website to see if they had an article; I did not find one, but did note that all their length instructions are given in mm: "Set your stitch length to 2.5mm.") So from that it looks like Threads concurs? The number is supposed to mean mm.

And in a related, but interesting note, Quiltmaker.com's article "Understanding Stitch Length" gives a formula for converting stitch length in millimeters, to stitches per inch. I'm not a quilter, so I'm not sure why knowing the SPI is so significant, but from the comments, this was information many people were glad to have! (shrug)
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Member since 5/2/09
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Posted on: 6/18/15 2:48 PM ET
In reply to Al Johnson
Yes you are correct. Depending greatly on the age of some machine, and just even where made, some # there on plate or dial or whatever there, for choice of stitch length could be Imperial or Metric measurement. If Imperial and in inches it's how many stitches per inch, bit if it's metric instead, then it's just how long just a single straight stitch would be, in mm instead.

I don't think it's super duper accurate though, just since depending on your fabric,the bottom of your pressure foot, the pressure on the pressure foot bar, fabric height, fabric drag of something hanging out of a machine, sewing forwards or backwards, the pointy-ness of feed dog teeth and the fact often slanted in one direction more than the other, machines most times sew better forwards than backwards easy, particular needle and thread wise and even thread tension and just lots of stuff, (including how well oiled and slick moving or good working a machine was too probably) I guess if my life depended on it for something, I would probably always test sew with all those individual factors going on, on a long length of fabric and spot check someplaces maybe. Just since I think some or all of those things, can change things. Better safe than sorry, if it's all that important on something, I would think.
  
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Posted on: 6/18/15 3:21 PM ET
In reply to Al Johnson
Stitch Length in Millimeters/Stitch Length in Stitches per Inch

0.5/60
1/24
2/13
3/9
4/6
5/5
6/4


My machine defaults to 2. If the manual for your machine does not provide this information, you could make your own chart.
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Posted on: 6/18/15 6:34 PM ET
In reply to Al Johnson
Sometimes - on both my main machines yes

brother pq1500s - max stitch length 7mm - dial goes from 0-7 - and yes I have measured

Janome mc9700 - max stitch length 5mm - screen input from 0-5 - and yes measured again

Cannot vouch for other machines but yes on mine set to a 4 you get a 4mm long stitch length.

Tanya

  
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Posted on: 6/19/15 3:25 AM ET
My first sewing machine was a Sears Kenmore, thus marked in US inches. I used the stitch length recommended for normal stitching, but I don't remember anymore what that was (11"?). Nearly 40 years ago, I replaced it with a Viking, made in Sweden. It used all kinds of different numbers, which meant nothing to me. Again, I just learned what I was supposed to use. I was comfortable using a 3 for most normal stitching, and the seam guide was at 1.5 instead of 5/8.

Years later, I moved to Europe and had to deal with metric, and I finally learned that those random numbers actually did mean something. They applied to millimeters. By that time, I just knew what I used, so they are still random to me. I was surprised to learn that newer US brand machines are now using the same numbering system. I don't know if any US or European brand machine is actually made in any Western country now.

Trying to measure an inch worth of stitching never comes out the same, so I guess it depends on the fabric itself, or perhaps in my case now the age of the machine (it's unfortunately getting old and worn out like I am).

Knowing what something is supposed to mean is fun for the curiosity, using what works is practical. And there are charts that compare the two systems if it's really important to know.
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