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Re: Breaking the Bias (posted on 11/11/15 11:25 PM ET)
Hi, whilst cruising around different sites I came across some instructions on how to bind a sheer shell top with a very narrow binding. Sorry the article eludes me at the moment.

Anyway, it instructs you to "break the Bias" after cutting your bias strip. The article describes how to do this, cut the bias strip wider that normal, about 2 & 3/4 inches wide in the first instance, and then stretch the strip lengthways and iron, the strip will become skinnier. Cut the strip to uniform/desired width and then shape and curve the strip using the iron to suit the neckline shape of the garment.

I get that it stabilisers the fabric but wouldn't it take most of the stretch out which is the point of bias?

I'm intrigued
-- Edited on 11/11/15 at 11:26 PM --
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Posted on: 11/12/15 1:01 AM ET
If you pull a bias strip through a bias tape maker and iron it, it gets stretched out somewhat but still retains much of the bias flexibility. I would think that breaking the bias in the way that you have described would have much the same effect. It probably makes the bias easier to handle for the relatively gentle curve of a neckline.
  
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Posted on: 11/12/15 4:22 AM ET
To stabilize anything you need a firm tape. But you can’t use a tape to stabilize curves, since it will not follow the curve. By breaking the bias, you make the bias tape firmer, while the bias cut still allows the tape to follow a curve. If you don't break the bias, the tape has too much stretch and would not stabilize the curve. Pulling the tape trough a bias maker does not stretch the tape enough to break the bias.
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Posted on: 11/12/15 7:09 AM ET
Thanks for this information. I would never have known this and see how it can improve the stability. We all learn from each other. Awesome!
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Posted on: 11/12/15 7:15 AM ET
In reply to rag doll
Same concept as cracking a crotch seam in pants. As already mentioned here, it gets the stretch out in order to provide more stabilization.

The reason for using bias in your project is that it can be steamed into curves where straight grain cannot.
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Posted on: 11/12/15 3:00 PM ET
In reply to Doris W. in TN

I've never heard the term, "cracking the crotch seam." How is it done?
Link?

I knew about stretching the bias from one of the Craftsy videos, but forget the name of the teacher.
  
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Posted on: 11/12/15 3:49 PM ET
In reply to ccris
I don't have a link, unfortunately, but it can probably be googled. Joyce Murphy showed us how in a pants-making workshop. As I recall, one stitches the crotch seam and "cracks" the back crotch curve part by pressing the seam open and pulling a bit, while pressing it. IF the stitches break, go back and re-sew. In essence, you are stretching the bias part of the back crotch seam before the pants are worn. It's a good time to re-assess the fit.

I found this from Sandra Betzina, just now Got to step #9 if this link works, but she does it before pressing.
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Posted on: 11/12/15 6:42 PM ET
In reply to ccris
Linda Maynard talked about getting the stretch out of bias strips before using them in one or more of her Craftsy classes. I don't remember her calling it "breaking," but she may have.
  
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Posted on: 11/12/15 10:22 PM ET
In reply to Elephun
Thanks everyone for the info about the bias. I'll be trying this on various bound summer tops this season!
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Posted on: 11/14/15 1:40 PM ET
In reply to Doris W. in TN

Thanks, Doris. Learned something new. Haven't made pants in a long time, but when I did, I didn't "crack" the crotch seam and never had a problem. Oh, and I never stretched the bias for piping, either, but think I'll try it on my next project..........quilted mixer cover! I'm planning on making oven mitts and binding the edge, too. I wonder if double fold bias tape (my own) should also be stretched???? I've never even thought about doing that until just now.
  
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