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Tips? (Moderated by EleanorSews)
Posted on: 3/1/16 11:32 AM ET
Hi all, I made my first Burda top and it was pretty tricky without a seam allowance. I didn't quite follow the directions, and wanted to get advice from others. The top (wearable muslin) miraculously turned out ok, but I'm glad that I didn't use expensive fabric.
The top is from the last issue of Burda magazine - the sew along tutorial "easy" top.
What I did was trace all pattern pieces, and then I cut out my tracing paper to use as a pattern. I probably should have added seam allowances at this point , but wanted to get started.
Then I traced onto my fabric using a washable marker so that I could sew along the lines. I know that I should have added seam allowances here, but instead cut "eyeballing" the 5/8 seam allowance.
Where I got confused was around the neckline, yoke, and hem. I added a seam allowance everywhere, but conceptually, maybe I should not have added a seam allowance to these pieces? Is there more instruction somewhere on where to add a seam allowanc and where NOt to add a seam allowance? Any raw edges (the bottom edges of the facings) probably should not have had any seam allowance added. I would guess the sleeve hem and bottom hem pieces should not have had a seam allowance either. The neckline in front did get sewing onto the facing, so I should have added a seam allowance to the top of those pieces but not the bottom edge of the pieces, right?
I think that as a beginner I should spend much more time conceptualize get the pattern and draft a better pattern piece (with appropriate seam allowances) up front. I may trace the whole thing onto a sturdier pattern board of some kind because I did end up liking this top and the fit was great. I'm just looking for tips and input on how you go about tacking Burda patterns. Thanks - I do like the Burda style and would like to make more of the items from this issue!
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The top is from the last issue of Burda magazine - the sew along tutorial "easy" top.
What I did was trace all pattern pieces, and then I cut out my tracing paper to use as a pattern. I probably should have added seam allowances at this point , but wanted to get started.
Then I traced onto my fabric using a washable marker so that I could sew along the lines. I know that I should have added seam allowances here, but instead cut "eyeballing" the 5/8 seam allowance.
Where I got confused was around the neckline, yoke, and hem. I added a seam allowance everywhere, but conceptually, maybe I should not have added a seam allowance to these pieces? Is there more instruction somewhere on where to add a seam allowanc and where NOt to add a seam allowance? Any raw edges (the bottom edges of the facings) probably should not have had any seam allowance added. I would guess the sleeve hem and bottom hem pieces should not have had a seam allowance either. The neckline in front did get sewing onto the facing, so I should have added a seam allowance to the top of those pieces but not the bottom edge of the pieces, right?
I think that as a beginner I should spend much more time conceptualize get the pattern and draft a better pattern piece (with appropriate seam allowances) up front. I may trace the whole thing onto a sturdier pattern board of some kind because I did end up liking this top and the fit was great. I'm just looking for tips and input on how you go about tacking Burda patterns. Thanks - I do like the Burda style and would like to make more of the items from this issue!
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Bernina 630, Pfaff 2058, Babylock Eclipse DX, BLCS-2
Posted on: 3/1/16 11:42 AM ET
In the instructions, it will state seam allowance measurements. I'm not familiar with this particular pattern or issue, but I have used burda mag patterns before. Usually, SA (seam allowances) are 5/8" unless noted on seperate pattern pieces. Like hems, for example, I've run across 5/8" everywhere, but the hem was 1 1/2". That was clearly stated on the hemline on the pattern piece. Sometimes it's noted in the patterns instructions.
I would definitely advise drawing out correct sa when tracing patterns. Dritz has a double tracing wheel that is great for this. I found mine on amazon, and the tracing wheels can be moved for different widths....or just carefully using a seam guage. Hope that helps!
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I would definitely advise drawing out correct sa when tracing patterns. Dritz has a double tracing wheel that is great for this. I found mine on amazon, and the tracing wheels can be moved for different widths....or just carefully using a seam guage. Hope that helps!
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*Tracy*
*Everything happens for a reason. What's meant to be will be.*
In heaven with my best friends:
Singer 2932
Singer ProFinish 14CG754 serger
Vintage White Rotary model 43 (1939)
Kenmore Deluxe Rotary 117.552 (made by white 1954)
Singer 99k (1928)
Brother 2340cv (coverstitch)
*Everything happens for a reason. What's meant to be will be.*
In heaven with my best friends:
Singer 2932
Singer ProFinish 14CG754 serger
Vintage White Rotary model 43 (1939)
Kenmore Deluxe Rotary 117.552 (made by white 1954)
Singer 99k (1928)
Brother 2340cv (coverstitch)
Posted on: 3/1/16 11:54 AM ET
Add 5/8" everywhere unless it states otherwise. Like trippinbugs said, the hem is often different. You may want to look ahead in the instructions, too. Sometimes it says to trim off x amount from the SA in certain spots. If you see that in advanced, you can just make the SA 5/8-x to start with. (But make good notes, you don't want to forget and THEN trim it again!)
Frankly for raw edges like bottom of the facing, it doesn't really matter! If you're going to leave it raw, then you don't have to add SA, but it's not going to hurt anything to have slightly wider facing. If you're going to finish it by serging or sewing to interfacing RST and then turn over before fusing (my favourite method), then you can trim it off then.
Frankly for raw edges like bottom of the facing, it doesn't really matter! If you're going to leave it raw, then you don't have to add SA, but it's not going to hurt anything to have slightly wider facing. If you're going to finish it by serging or sewing to interfacing RST and then turn over before fusing (my favourite method), then you can trim it off then.
Posted on: 3/1/16 11:55 AM ET
In reply to Melcalifornia
Any seam line that is being sewn to another seam line needs a seam allowance. I think you would definitely need a seam allowance on your neckline, yoke, and hem (for hemming purposes).
Posted on: 3/1/16 12:09 PM ET
Lots of good advice here!
I only wanted to add one thing: if it's a hem, it only needs a hem allowance. The instructions will tell you how much. I think standard hem allowance with Burda is 1 5/8", but I don't have a magazine in front of me. No seam allowance gets added here. Just hem allowance for hems.
I only wanted to add one thing: if it's a hem, it only needs a hem allowance. The instructions will tell you how much. I think standard hem allowance with Burda is 1 5/8", but I don't have a magazine in front of me. No seam allowance gets added here. Just hem allowance for hems.
Minnesota USA
Skill: Advanced
Skill: Advanced
Posted on: 3/1/16 12:11 PM ET
I started sewing with Burda within the past couple of years, so I'm definitely no expert!
But it's so fast to do it at the paper stage.
Lately, I trace a pattern piece, add the seam allowance, cut it out. And then move on.
I often use 3/8" with knits because I construct knits on the serger. No need to waste fabric with the extra SA.
I've found that I can quite accurately eyeball 1/4" or 3/8" but not 5/8". And while I have eyeballed SA on knits, never on wovens.
Lastly, because Burda drafts for a height taller than my own (I'm 5'5"), I never need to add hem allowance.
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But it's so fast to do it at the paper stage. Lately, I trace a pattern piece, add the seam allowance, cut it out. And then move on.
I often use 3/8" with knits because I construct knits on the serger. No need to waste fabric with the extra SA.
I've found that I can quite accurately eyeball 1/4" or 3/8" but not 5/8". And while I have eyeballed SA on knits, never on wovens.
Lastly, because Burda drafts for a height taller than my own (I'm 5'5"), I never need to add hem allowance.
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Janome Skyline S3 | Singer Quantum Stylist 9985 | Singer Stylist 7258 | Kenmore 1503
Baby Lock Celebrate | Brother 2340CV
My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14 | Pants 16 | Skirts 16
My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 33 UB | 32 W | 43 Hip
http://dressmakingdebacles.blogspot.com
Baby Lock Celebrate | Brother 2340CV
My Big 4 Sizing: Medium | Tops 14 | Pants 16 | Skirts 16
My Measurements: 36 HB | 38.5 FB | 33 UB | 32 W | 43 Hip
http://dressmakingdebacles.blogspot.com
Posted on: 3/1/16 12:18 PM ET
In reply to Elephun
Quote: Elephun
No seam allowance gets added here. Just hem allowance for hems.
No seam allowance gets added here. Just hem allowance for hems.
Thank you for clarifying that. That's what I meant, but you said it better.

The first time I used a Burda magazine pattern, I had to add the hem allowance and it was printed on the pattern, but I just added length for hemming and it was a mess. I should have added the hem allowance as they specified because it was shaped. Hard to explain. Fortunately, there was a drawstring inserted at the hem, so you couldn't tell that my hem allowance was all goofy. Well, that's what I hoped.
Posted on: 3/1/16 12:24 PM ET
I think you're good with whatever amount of seam allowance you are comfortable with. A lot of non-big 4 knit patterns I've used have 1/4" SA, and it can range up to even an inch.
I trace the pattern on my tracing medium, then I measure around with my slide ruler the SA I wan to add. This is an extra step, and my eyeball is pretty good, but I'm preparing to be a teacher, so accuracy is everything to me now.
I haven't made a BS pattern in a long time, but I saw a dress I had to have in the 11/2015 issue. I have yet to trace it off, but I have the fabric ready to go (after fitting muslin). For that pattern in rayon challis, I will use 5/8", trimming down and clipping curves, etc. in the construction process.
It's more time and effort, but sometimes, BurdaStyle is the only place to find the right look!
Just an FYI. When you download the patterns from the website, all pieces for that number will be in the file (ex. #112A and #112B). The instructions are only for the view you bought. This can sometimes mean a bonus pattern if you can figure out how to put it together. The pattern I downloaded is also the pattern for two skirts. I think I'll probably make at least one of them!
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I trace the pattern on my tracing medium, then I measure around with my slide ruler the SA I wan to add. This is an extra step, and my eyeball is pretty good, but I'm preparing to be a teacher, so accuracy is everything to me now.
I haven't made a BS pattern in a long time, but I saw a dress I had to have in the 11/2015 issue. I have yet to trace it off, but I have the fabric ready to go (after fitting muslin). For that pattern in rayon challis, I will use 5/8", trimming down and clipping curves, etc. in the construction process.
It's more time and effort, but sometimes, BurdaStyle is the only place to find the right look!
Just an FYI. When you download the patterns from the website, all pieces for that number will be in the file (ex. #112A and #112B). The instructions are only for the view you bought. This can sometimes mean a bonus pattern if you can figure out how to put it together. The pattern I downloaded is also the pattern for two skirts. I think I'll probably make at least one of them!
------
Diane L Wilson
Palmer/ Pletsch Certified Sewing Instructor
Follow me on Instagram & Twitter @sewfrantic
Business IG @stitchplease_cs Custom Fit Shirts
Palmer/ Pletsch Certified Sewing Instructor
Follow me on Instagram & Twitter @sewfrantic
Business IG @stitchplease_cs Custom Fit Shirts
Posted on: 3/1/16 12:24 PM ET
Dang it! Snow day duplicate post!
-- Edited on 3/1/16 at 12:26 PM --
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-- Edited on 3/1/16 at 12:26 PM --
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Diane L Wilson
Palmer/ Pletsch Certified Sewing Instructor
Follow me on Instagram & Twitter @sewfrantic
Business IG @stitchplease_cs Custom Fit Shirts
Palmer/ Pletsch Certified Sewing Instructor
Follow me on Instagram & Twitter @sewfrantic
Business IG @stitchplease_cs Custom Fit Shirts
Posted on: 3/1/16 1:03 PM ET
There are various ways to add seam allowances to the Burda magazine patterns (apparently US envelop patterns have them added already?) and I vary them, to be honest*.
I realized years ago that each of my tape measures was a different width so I often use the 1,5cm(5/8in) one and lay it next to the pinned pattern piece. Trace along the edge. This works best for long lateral seams like along a dress, sleeve or pant side seam.
For curved seams, I use a hemming gauge.
I have a weird quirk for knits. I prefer the patterns to have the SAs added already because I will be using my rotary cutter. I typically use scissors for my wovens, except for sheer or slippery fabrics.
Other techniques include:
-Double Tracing Wheel + carbon paper;
- Parallel Tracing Wheel;
- Rotary Cutter with Adjustable Arm;
- 1/4in or 5/8in;
- adding the seam allowances by perforating your paper with your sewing machine needle.
Each is cheap enough that you can choose which you prefer and go with it. As others have said, the instructions usually recommend varying SAs according to the nature of the seam. Good luck!
*chaotic sewing space influences this more than I should admit in public...
-- Edited on 3/1/16 at 2:18 PM --
I realized years ago that each of my tape measures was a different width so I often use the 1,5cm(5/8in) one and lay it next to the pinned pattern piece. Trace along the edge. This works best for long lateral seams like along a dress, sleeve or pant side seam.
For curved seams, I use a hemming gauge.
I have a weird quirk for knits. I prefer the patterns to have the SAs added already because I will be using my rotary cutter. I typically use scissors for my wovens, except for sheer or slippery fabrics.
Other techniques include:
-Double Tracing Wheel + carbon paper;
- Parallel Tracing Wheel;
- Rotary Cutter with Adjustable Arm;
- 1/4in or 5/8in;
- adding the seam allowances by perforating your paper with your sewing machine needle.
Each is cheap enough that you can choose which you prefer and go with it. As others have said, the instructions usually recommend varying SAs according to the nature of the seam. Good luck!
*chaotic sewing space influences this more than I should admit in public...
-- Edited on 3/1/16 at 2:18 PM --
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