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Member since 12/27/14
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Posted on: 8/11/16 10:59 PM ET
I want to make a dress with a mock-wrap bodice and gathered skirt. The pattern says it "will work with many types of fabrics" and I have a knit fabric I want to use.

Do I need to see the darts if my fabric is stretchy? I was thinking I could fold/close the darts and cut the pattern flat. I am also planning to not add the zipper that would be in place for a woven fabric, because I could pull it on over my head like some ready to wear.

Do these ideas seem practical?
  
Member since 5/2/09
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Posted on: 8/11/16 11:48 PM ET
If the knit fabric is really super stretchy, and your bust is not big, I don't see why not? Only you know your fabric and your pattern though, as you are the only one looking at both of them.
  
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Posted on: 8/12/16 1:26 AM ET
In reply to girlschmoopie
You can leave off the zipper as long it will go over your head, no problem. I've done it and I read reviews all the time where this has been done in knits. On the dart issue, being a wrap bodice I wouldn't think you would need them, but I don't wear that style so hopefully someone else will chime in on that. If you need a bit more room in the bust, the pivot and slide FBA works very well with bodices without darts, and is my favorite method for knits.
Here is a video and Here is a blog of the pivot and slide.
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Posted on: 8/12/16 9:29 AM ET
If you close the darts, you will have to release the dart somewhere else or the pattern will not lay flat. Personally, I like darts in knit fabric. It makes the fabric much smoother without a lot of wrinkles.
  
Member since 12/27/14
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Posted on: 8/12/16 9:43 AM ET
In reply to SewLibra
Great video and link, thanks! I don't know that I need to make the fba, but I like how easy the pivot method is for when I do need it. I think the mock wrap bodice pattern only has darts for shaping in a woven, as I can't see how it would lay nicely without it, but I didn't want to eliminate it if someone with more experience chimed in with a reason it wa necessary for a knit. Kwim?

The mock-wrap bodice meets a dirndl skirt...that I think I plan to just do with elastic on my overlocker, so I should have no problem pulling it on over my head. Theoretically, I think I see this being a dress I could cut out and sew completely this morning, to wear to a party this afternoon... I may just keep the darts in anyway, just in case.
  
Member since 12/27/14
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Posted on: 8/12/16 9:46 AM ET
In reply to mkhpaintsew
Thank you! That is what I was curious about... I have two r2w mock wrap knit tops that do not have darts, so I wasn't sure if it was a thing...or would make my dress look look odd. If I keep the darts, I do not need to do any changes, which should make the sew go much more quickly!
  
Member since 11/28/13
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Posted on: 8/12/16 9:48 AM ET
In reply to girlschmoopie
Patterns that can be made with a variety of types of fabrics usually mean within one family: wovens or knits. If the pattern only recommends wovens I wouldn't use knits, especially since as a beginner you may not know how to fix problems. There are ways to modify a woven pattern for knits, for example, The University of Fashion has lessons on how to modify a particular sloper for knits, but it takes experience. Look at the penultimate row and the second from the last row of videos.

Of course, you can take a chance and eliminate the zipper, etc., but I would give the pattern makers some credit for designing a pattern for fabric with particular qualities.
  
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Posted on: 8/12/16 9:54 AM ET
In reply to SewLibra
I think it's a misnomer to call those methods a full-bust adjustment. True it adds width at the bustline, but that is just circumference. A full bust needs additional length. It might work for a very small bust adjustment.

I use the pivot and slide technique to alter patterns all the time. Been doing it for over 20 years. Both of those demos have left out half the instructions. I'm not saying its not working for them. It's just wrong to call it an FBA. The video got it right saying it's a way to add circumference at the bustline.
-- Edited on 8/12/16 at 10:02 AM --
  
Member since 12/27/14
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Posted on: 8/12/16 10:33 AM ET
In reply to pointpatou
Thanks for the link, what a wealth of information!

The pattern I am using is from Sew Many Dresses And it doesn't necessarily state it is for wovens exclusively. There is a lot of flexibility in these simple patterns.

I do know that using the fabric I want with the pattern I want me means making some changes...like lining the bodice and underlining the skirt for a bit more stability. I'm willing to give it a try and see what I am able to do with it. I will either end up with what I envision in my head (bonus!) or I will have learned something new (also acceptable).
  
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Posted on: 8/12/16 3:03 PM ET
In reply to girlschmoopie
I just took a look at the link for this pattern. In the fabrics listed, nowhere does it mention knits. This pattern is for wovens and blends.
  
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