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Member since 2/17/08
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Posted on: 10/20/17 2:25 PM ET
Feedback? Should I try going up a size, or do I maybe do a FBA adjustment? I'm guessing I need an adjustment to the back length as well.





  
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Posted on: 10/21/17 0:22 AM ET
Although you may ultimately need to do other adjustments, it is hard to tell until you have enough circumference.

Great start, though. The bustline fit looks nice!
  
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Posted on: 10/21/17 0:47 AM ET
Start by opening up your princess seams at the bust apex. I don't think you need a bigger size, because the shoulder width looks good. And it looks like you might have too much fullness along the neck edge already...you don't want to add to that. And it also looks like you'll need to add width across the back, but I don't have any experience with back alterations.
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Paula

"In Seattle you haven't had enough coffee until you can thread a sewing machine while it's running."
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Member since 3/28/09
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Posted on: 10/21/17 8:46 AM ET
Honestly the bust looks a bit tight in the front view.
The fullness in the front neckline should be pinned out and transferred into the existing bust darting.
Are there no darts in the back shoulder?
The upper back looks too tight and the back armhole maybe needs to be reshaped.
Unpick the lower part of the side seam to allow the bodice to settle, unpick the lower area of the back dart as well, see what happens there to your seam and dart shaping.

It is always easier to pin out excess rather than guess how much bigger to make things.

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Posted on: 10/21/17 10:58 AM ET
I'd start with a small FBA, that should release the tightness both on your bust, your side by the bust and your upper back. Then see where you are. Doing more than one adjustment at a time just means you won't know which made the difference. After that you can tackle the length of the back, the neckline, the armhole, the shoulder, one at a time.
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Debbie
Viking Sapphire 930, Babylock Evolution
  
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Posted on: 10/21/17 10:58 AM ET
Duplicate!
-- Edited on 10/21/17 at 10:58 AM --
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Debbie
Viking Sapphire 930, Babylock Evolution
  
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Posted on: 10/21/17 12:03 PM ET
In reply to tailored
What do you mean by pinning out the excess and transferring to the existing bust dart? I get where and how to pin out the excess at the neck, but just where or how to put back in at the dart, or at all. Is that the same thing as "rotating a dart?" Apologies for jumping in on OP, but my bodice fitting is often similar .
  
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Posted on: 10/21/17 5:32 PM ET
Yes, pin out the excess that is showing as excess fabric in the neckline, then rotate it to where you want it. Into an existing dart

In the pictures above, the neckline has excess fabric because the bust is fuller than the pattern is drafted for. So the bust is now causing a fit issue at the neckline.
It becomes a bit of cause and effect. If a larger size was chosen, perhaps the neckline wouldn't have excess. If a garment is too tight in one place it shows up in another because something has to give way.
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Posted on: 10/21/17 5:39 PM ET
In reply to chickenne
To be more specific, when you have excess fabric in an area, like this, you pin the excess into a dart so that the bodice lies against the body properly.
Then you transfer this "dart" to the pattern. Rotate this dart into an existing dart which will clean up how the fabric lies against the body, and will also increase the dart take up in the old dart.


The tricky part is trying to decide where the problem lies. If the fit is great everywhere except for needing a bit of a pinch out in the neckline then it is a minor adjustment.
If the overall fit is too small, you may end up correcting five issues but maybe only one issue on a bigger size.
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Posted on: 10/21/17 5:44 PM ET
In reply to tailored
Please make your FBA before you do anything else. The garment is way too tight across your bust and you need to ease that tension before you do anything else.
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Paula

"In Seattle you haven't had enough coffee until you can thread a sewing machine while it's running."
- Jeff Bezos, Amazon.com founder

Visit my blog at www.sewconfused.blogspot.com
Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.com/paulag1955/sewing-inspiration/
  
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