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Are they ever straight?! (Moderated by Deepika)
Posted on: 4/18/19 7:20 PM ET
I just hemmed a dress with 2” horsehair in the middle tulle layer. I marked where it should be, trimmed, re-attached the horsehair and it’s mostly straight! Without the horsehair, the hem was perfectly even with the floor. This is my second battle with the horsehair hem. The first one was messed up by a fancy alterations place in town. I tried my best to straighten it out but it still had parts that dipped. Is there a trick to this I’m missing? Or are they just not going to be perfectly level? It seems the curve and bounce of the horsehair makes it look uneven.
Posted on: 4/18/19 7:27 PM ET
In reply to SewDisturbed
Is this the sort of "uneven" you're talking about?
Or is it up and down when the hem edge is pulled out flat?
Or is it up and down when the hem edge is pulled out flat?Posted on: 4/19/19 7:05 AM ET
The fact is that horsehair is the devil's invention. I have several gowns in my sewing room now with horsehair waiting to be shortened including a wedding dress. I swear there's a cold spot in that part of the room. I had a bride come to me last year a with multi-tiered dress--each layer a different length and edged in horsehair. I almost cried with joy when she said she hated how it looked (like toilet paper she said) and could I get rid of it for her. We ended up doing a serged rolled hem with a nice embroidery thread and it was far prettier. However, you can't always get away with that.
I have no magic solution for you. Horsehair often comes creased and distorted from the gown having been shipped to the store. Once I get it off the dress, a swearing-intensive process, I press it as flat as I can get it with a warm iron. I use a clapper for additional pressure. I find the problems come (when altering) because there is no string available to shape a curved hem. So I'll add my own running stitch (by hand) through the top edge. It's super important not to stretch the braid as you sew it on the bottom edge and then to use the gathering thread intermittently to pull the top edge in to fit. It's way too easy to distort the hem and have it hang unevenly. Depending on fabric/hem depth/dress style, you may need to baste the hem (rather than pinning).
That's all I've got. I hope of piece of this helps. As I said, the
's invention.
I have no magic solution for you. Horsehair often comes creased and distorted from the gown having been shipped to the store. Once I get it off the dress, a swearing-intensive process, I press it as flat as I can get it with a warm iron. I use a clapper for additional pressure. I find the problems come (when altering) because there is no string available to shape a curved hem. So I'll add my own running stitch (by hand) through the top edge. It's super important not to stretch the braid as you sew it on the bottom edge and then to use the gathering thread intermittently to pull the top edge in to fit. It's way too easy to distort the hem and have it hang unevenly. Depending on fabric/hem depth/dress style, you may need to baste the hem (rather than pinning).
That's all I've got. I hope of piece of this helps. As I said, the
's invention.
Posted on: 4/19/19 9:35 AM ET
In reply to Michelle53
I think if they were knee length it wouldn’t be noticeable but my pageant girls want it perfectly level! When I make a dress and use horsehair it’s level. Maybe it’s getting distorted in the factory?
I agree, I think it’s a scheme satans using to drive seamstresses insane. Give me a 500” rolled hem over horsehair any day!
I agree, I think it’s a scheme satans using to drive seamstresses insane. Give me a 500” rolled hem over horsehair any day!
Posted on: 4/19/19 9:36 AM ET
In reply to kayl
Yes like that only floor length!
Posted on: 4/19/19 10:16 AM ET
My bet is that they don't hang factory made dresses before adding the horse hair. They would never take that time! My ballgowns hang get trimmed, then hang and trim again before the horsehair gets added.
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http://bgballroom.wordpress.com to follow the progress on my next ballgown.
Posted on: 4/19/19 11:47 AM ET
In reply to SewDisturbed
Horsehair braid adds weight. A full hemline is going to have several places where the fabric is on the bias. Add the weight of the horsehair braid and it is going to be different. Baste the horsehair braid to the hemline where it is to be shortened (don't cut yet); let it hang without touching the floor for at least 24 hours. Check the hemline to see where adjustments need to be made. This isn't a quick process.
Posted on: 4/19/19 12:10 PM ET
In reply to Alania
That might be the trick Alania! Although I wouldn’t think tulle would stretch too much. Satin I’m SURE that’s the problem! I would so much rather make a dress than alter it.
Posted on: 5/14/19 2:44 PM ET
What is the trick to not snagging it when sewing it? I have seen a post or video about it somewhere and wrote it down somewhere lol and I can't find it ... I have wasted half my day looking for it. I think it snags almost every time I sew it :(
Posted on: 6/7/19 10:01 AM ET
I did find the information I was searching everywhere for from a bridal seamstress that’s super nice. She puts video tips on YouTube about the alterations she’s been doing at her own business forever. And I emailed her to confirm. She said to try a size 9 needle (now I haven’t had enough coffee and need to go back and double check if it’s sharp or ballpoint) and to go much slower than I probably do. Yes you always let circle skirts hang overnight so the bias can relax on it. Not as necessary if you’re not doing a circle skirt. I was using a slightly bigger needle and sewing at Jen speed as usual:). I have had excellent luck since I spoke with her. Thought I’d pass it on. I’ll check needle type here after I get some more ☕️ in me
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