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Posted on: 4/13/21 2:36 PM ET
Hi, all,
I'm working on a Sure-Fit Designs bodice, and there are many adjustments to make. .... soooo many adjustments ....
My front waist darts are fine. My side darts (DD) are horizontal and fit well. And, hurrah, my front side seams are straight. But removing about 1.25 inches of fabric from the gaping front armhole has just doubled the take-up of my side dart. Sheesh!
From looking at various websites, I know one can split or double the side darts. But should the darts be parallel? Should both point toward the apex? Or is it a matter of whatever looks better? And will my choice of fabric for the final garment be a factor in how to 'aim' the darts (e.g. solid vs print, body, structure, amount of drape...)
I'm working on a Sure-Fit Designs bodice, and there are many adjustments to make. .... soooo many adjustments ....
My front waist darts are fine. My side darts (DD) are horizontal and fit well. And, hurrah, my front side seams are straight. But removing about 1.25 inches of fabric from the gaping front armhole has just doubled the take-up of my side dart. Sheesh!
From looking at various websites, I know one can split or double the side darts. But should the darts be parallel? Should both point toward the apex? Or is it a matter of whatever looks better? And will my choice of fabric for the final garment be a factor in how to 'aim' the darts (e.g. solid vs print, body, structure, amount of drape...)
Posted on: 4/14/21 0:37 AM ET
There is no single answer except that the darts should end within the bust circle. The rest is your design preference. Your choice of fabric will assist you in making that decision. I guess the only guidance would be that I think if splitting the darts, the top one would be longer (but that is totally design). Now, wasn't that just a LOT of help? :)
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NancyGT
2023
Mindful sewing. Mindful purchasing.
Conquer bodice and jacket TNT patterns. Pants also would be good. Fitted princess seam bodice DONE. Sleeves are WIP. Pants a distinct maybe.
2023: +33.5: -20; Muslins made: 12; Final projects: 0.
2023
Mindful sewing. Mindful purchasing.
Conquer bodice and jacket TNT patterns. Pants also would be good. Fitted princess seam bodice DONE. Sleeves are WIP. Pants a distinct maybe.
2023: +33.5: -20; Muslins made: 12; Final projects: 0.
Posted on: 4/14/21 1:17 AM ET
There is a recent surefitdesigns video on YouTube on dividing the bust dart which might answer your question. Sorry I don't know how to post the link.
Posted on: 4/14/21 8:19 AM ET
In reply to maladresse
Bust darts seem to be the construction item that pulls a nice ordinary home sewist into the realm of pattern making. I just purchased a copy of "Patternmaking for Fashion Design" by Helen Joseph Armstrong for the initial short term goal of learning how to segment waist darts.
From what you are describing and from the diagrams in the book, I am guessing that you may want to try Googling "Double French Dart" drafting. There are several videos on how to do these that might be helpful.
Good Luck.
-- Edited on 4/14/21 at 8:21 AM ET --
-- Edited on 4/14/21 at 8:21 AM ET --
From what you are describing and from the diagrams in the book, I am guessing that you may want to try Googling "Double French Dart" drafting. There are several videos on how to do these that might be helpful.
Good Luck.
-- Edited on 4/14/21 at 8:21 AM ET --
-- Edited on 4/14/21 at 8:21 AM ET --
Posted on: 4/14/21 8:49 AM ET
In reply to SewingRm
Hi,
I did know of the double-french-dart video, but her instructions involve eliminating the waist dart as well as sliding the side dart down the side seam.
I don't want to lose my waist dart, and I didn't want to start my darts so low down the side seam. I think I'm quite the wrong shape for that look. :-)
But thank you anyway, SewingRm.
I just want to have two darts come from higher up the side seam.
I did know of the double-french-dart video, but her instructions involve eliminating the waist dart as well as sliding the side dart down the side seam.
I don't want to lose my waist dart, and I didn't want to start my darts so low down the side seam. I think I'm quite the wrong shape for that look. :-)
But thank you anyway, SewingRm.
I just want to have two darts come from higher up the side seam.
Posted on: 4/14/21 10:06 AM ET
In reply to maladresse
Sounds like you have a plan! Cut a mock-up or muslin and see how it works for you.
In one of Sarah Veblen's videos demonstrating fit, she suggests just pinning a double side dart into a bodice to see if you like it.
So plan to play with it a bit.
In one of Sarah Veblen's videos demonstrating fit, she suggests just pinning a double side dart into a bodice to see if you like it.
So plan to play with it a bit.
Posted on: 4/14/21 5:21 PM ET
In reply to saint95
I'm gonna have to take her bodice-fitting course, aren't I!
I was putting together the bodice block by way of taking a break from pants-fitting, another course of hers (it's excellent, but the task is incredibly challenging for me and my bulbous shape).
I was putting together the bodice block by way of taking a break from pants-fitting, another course of hers (it's excellent, but the task is incredibly challenging for me and my bulbous shape).
Posted on: 4/14/21 6:23 PM ET
Sarah is a wonderful teacher and I love her classes and highly recommend them. But in this case, you don't have to take a class just to learn this one technique. Sarah Veblen's video on draping parallel bust darts (Threads Magazine) is on YouTube.
Sarah Veblen's video for draping parallel darts
-- Edited on 4/14/21 at 6:31 PM ET --
Sarah Veblen's video for draping parallel darts
-- Edited on 4/14/21 at 6:31 PM ET --
Posted on: 4/14/21 9:54 PM ET
I'd suggest posing your question directly to Glenda of SFD. She seems to be very responsive to her customers.
Posted on: 4/14/21 10:07 PM ET
Duplicate post removed.
-- Edited on 4/14/21 at 10:08 PM ET --
-- Edited on 4/14/21 at 10:08 PM ET --
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