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Serging a rolled hem on organza is causing the fabric to pull (Moderated by Deepika)
Posted on: 6/2/22 1:21 PM ET
I'm in the process of making a dress for ballroom dancing, which has several organza underskirts to hem. I've been having a lot of trouble getting a neat rolled hem using my serger/overlocker and looking for suggestions!
Sometimes the hem is looking fine, but other times i'll hit a patch where the fabric will start to pull/distort and almost becomes 'crinkled' in texture with small holes. Pictures attached. Any advice on ways to overcome this/what may be causing the problem would be greatly appreciated!!!
(p.s I'm using brother overlocker, with a 3 thread rolled hem setting. I have also tried a few other lightweight fabrics - chiffon, crepe - and have had the same problem)

Sometimes the hem is looking fine, but other times i'll hit a patch where the fabric will start to pull/distort and almost becomes 'crinkled' in texture with small holes. Pictures attached. Any advice on ways to overcome this/what may be causing the problem would be greatly appreciated!!!

(p.s I'm using brother overlocker, with a 3 thread rolled hem setting. I have also tried a few other lightweight fabrics - chiffon, crepe - and have had the same problem)
Posted on: 6/2/22 1:52 PM ET
In reply to SewingSparkle
My first two suggestions are to clean the blades and evaluate if they need replacing, and new needles.
Also lengthen stitches and consider stabilizer.
-- Edited on 6/2/22 at 1:54 PM ET --
Also lengthen stitches and consider stabilizer.
-- Edited on 6/2/22 at 1:54 PM ET --
Posted on: 6/2/22 2:06 PM ET
In reply to SewingSparkle
To my eye, it looks as though the holes are caused by the roughness of the feed dogs against the fabric. If you are pulling the fabric a little as you help it feed around the curved edges you may inadvertently be snagging it on the sharp feed teeth. Can you lessen the foot pressure a little on your serger? It might help. Kayl's suggestion of stabilizer would also be good as it would put a barrier between the fabric and the teeth.
Posted on: 6/2/22 4:36 PM ET
Check for any burrs on your surface of your machine bed as well as the feed dog area and the underside of your presser foot - it looks like the fabric is catching on something. Also make sure you are using the correct needle - type & size.
Also what shape is the skirt your are hemming - circle skirt, gored skirt? If a circle skirt you need to be really careful that you aren't pulling on the fabric (even slightly) as you are roll hemming as you will stretch the fabric when you reach the bias edges. It took awhile, but I definitely got a feel for it after hundreds of yards of hems for ballroom gowns (those waltz gowns are a yardage hog!)
Edited to Add: I came back to look at your photos again after looking at some samples I have in my hem sample books - there is a possibility that it is your needle - you may be "pulling" the threads in your fabric.
-- Edited on 6/2/22 at 8:51 PM ET --
------
Also what shape is the skirt your are hemming - circle skirt, gored skirt? If a circle skirt you need to be really careful that you aren't pulling on the fabric (even slightly) as you are roll hemming as you will stretch the fabric when you reach the bias edges. It took awhile, but I definitely got a feel for it after hundreds of yards of hems for ballroom gowns (those waltz gowns are a yardage hog!)
Edited to Add: I came back to look at your photos again after looking at some samples I have in my hem sample books - there is a possibility that it is your needle - you may be "pulling" the threads in your fabric.
-- Edited on 6/2/22 at 8:51 PM ET --
------
Sheila
"sewing very slowly to fill an empty closet"
Stash Tally: net +46.375 yds (2014 to 2020); net +48.0 (2021); net +57.125 (2022); net +109.875 (2023)- Stash Tally 2024: 77.5 yds out/90.375 yds in (net + 12.875 yds)
2025 Stash Busting:
0 yds sewn (as of 01/01/25)
0 yds purchased/received (as of 01/01/25)
"sewing very slowly to fill an empty closet"
Stash Tally: net +46.375 yds (2014 to 2020); net +48.0 (2021); net +57.125 (2022); net +109.875 (2023)- Stash Tally 2024: 77.5 yds out/90.375 yds in (net + 12.875 yds)
2025 Stash Busting:
0 yds sewn (as of 01/01/25)
0 yds purchased/received (as of 01/01/25)
Posted on: 6/2/22 5:28 PM ET
In reply to SewingSparkle
I can't see your photos, but reading your comment gave me flashbacks to sewing a very lightweight silk dress - here's my review where I talk about how I worked through it.
It's important to get the machine settings adjusted, but for me, the only thing that really worked was using a tearaway stabilizer under the fabric, between the fabric and the feed dogs. It made a huge difference!
I almost lost my mind sewing that dress, I hope you're able to take some breaks and stay calm!
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It's important to get the machine settings adjusted, but for me, the only thing that really worked was using a tearaway stabilizer under the fabric, between the fabric and the feed dogs. It made a huge difference!
I almost lost my mind sewing that dress, I hope you're able to take some breaks and stay calm!

------
*Martha*
Back in New York!
BERNINA B735 & 153QE
Blog: www.BuriedDiamond.com
Back in New York!
BERNINA B735 & 153QE
Blog: www.BuriedDiamond.com
Posted on: 6/2/22 6:29 PM ET
I think the problem is your needle and thread (too thick)
What size of needle are you using and what kind of thread?
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What size of needle are you using and what kind of thread?
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Irina Grace
English is my Second Language
English is my Second Language
Posted on: 6/2/22 7:13 PM ET
Lots good feedback.
I would try narrow 3 thread instead of rolled hem - that worked for me when hemming silk organza underskirt, fine thread and new needles
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I would try narrow 3 thread instead of rolled hem - that worked for me when hemming silk organza underskirt, fine thread and new needles
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Wellington, NZ
Posted on: 6/3/22 4:14 AM ET
Thank you all so much for your advice and comments. I was tearing my hair out but am feeling much more motivated to try again now with your suggestions!
I think my starting point will be a new needle and less pressure from the pressing foot. I had been using a universal 65/9, but have found some new microtex 60/8 needles so will give them a go. The thread I'm using currently is moon 120 polyester thread. I've generally kept the cutting blade down as I found this particular fabric seemed to be slipping a lot as it was cut.
I like the idea of a stabiliser, i'm sure this would make the fabric much easier to work with. I've used tissue paper in the past with the sewing machine, but never with the serger. So another thing to definitely look into - would I put the stabiliser up to the edge of the fabric so it is rolled into the hem and then tearaway excess? I'm not too sure how I would manage a wash out stabiliser because the dress has so much fabric, I wouldn't really be able to wash the entire dress and would worry dipping the hems would give me watermarks.
Time to get testing on some scraps, I'll let you know how I get on!
I think my starting point will be a new needle and less pressure from the pressing foot. I had been using a universal 65/9, but have found some new microtex 60/8 needles so will give them a go. The thread I'm using currently is moon 120 polyester thread. I've generally kept the cutting blade down as I found this particular fabric seemed to be slipping a lot as it was cut.
I like the idea of a stabiliser, i'm sure this would make the fabric much easier to work with. I've used tissue paper in the past with the sewing machine, but never with the serger. So another thing to definitely look into - would I put the stabiliser up to the edge of the fabric so it is rolled into the hem and then tearaway excess? I'm not too sure how I would manage a wash out stabiliser because the dress has so much fabric, I wouldn't really be able to wash the entire dress and would worry dipping the hems would give me watermarks.
Time to get testing on some scraps, I'll let you know how I get on!

Posted on: 6/3/22 4:23 AM ET
In reply to SheBear0320
I have 3 x organza underskirts each 1 1/2 circles; and the outside layer is 6 x 1/2 circle chiffon godets. The underskirts have been such a nightmare so far, I haven't touched the chiffon yet. It's a beautiful cationic teal fabric and I'm terrified of making a mess of it!
I think I do have a tendency to pull the fabric a bit with the circle skirts. Will have to watch this, I wasn't going for a lettuce hem when I set out but it may turn into one yet!
I think I do have a tendency to pull the fabric a bit with the circle skirts. Will have to watch this, I wasn't going for a lettuce hem when I set out but it may turn into one yet!
Posted on: 6/3/22 8:15 AM ET
I can’t see the photos either, but my sewing machine dealer told me to use a wider stitch width setting when making a rolled edge. My problem was the edge was separating, pulling completely away from the fabric in some areas while serving poly chiffon. His tip solved the problem.
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