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These sizes seem way off (Moderated by EleanorSews)
Posted on: 5/9/07 11:10 PM ET
I have not finished a garment yet. I have started 3 and ended up getting frustrated, because they were way too big. So much so that they just fell off of me. I do know I need to get back in there and start making muslins before (which I haven't done) I cut the final fabric. My frustration comes from sizing. According to my measurements it seems that I should be about a size 10.
Full bust: 35"
Cup: C
Waist: 26.75"
Full hip: 37.25"
More detailed measurements are in my profile.
However, every bottom that I have made as a 10 has been 4-6" too big at the waist. The patterns didn't call for a stretchy fabric so I didn't use one. I am pretty sure that my seam allowances were proper. Even if they were not, I cannot imagine getting 6" of extra fabric with only 2 seams.
Size 8 and 10 are the smallest on the patterns that I purchased. Should I go out and get one with smaller sizes and measure the tissue, or am I just doing something very wrong?
Thanks in advance for any advice that you can give!
-- Edited on 5/25/08 5:16 PM --
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Full bust: 35"
Cup: C
Waist: 26.75"
Full hip: 37.25"
More detailed measurements are in my profile.
However, every bottom that I have made as a 10 has been 4-6" too big at the waist. The patterns didn't call for a stretchy fabric so I didn't use one. I am pretty sure that my seam allowances were proper. Even if they were not, I cannot imagine getting 6" of extra fabric with only 2 seams.
Size 8 and 10 are the smallest on the patterns that I purchased. Should I go out and get one with smaller sizes and measure the tissue, or am I just doing something very wrong?
Thanks in advance for any advice that you can give!
-- Edited on 5/25/08 5:16 PM --
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Sew new.
Posted on: 5/9/07 11:30 PM ET
In reply to sew cute
possibly we'll need more information to help us figure it out.
Can you tell us which patterns you tried, along with your high bust measurement. Along with how snug was the tape when you took your measurements.
Figuring out which pattern to start with can take acouple of goes, I'm crossing my fingers that you're testing them in inexpensive fabric. (know someone who tried to learn to sew making a bias cut silk sating skirt, and that's a very very steep learning curve)
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Can you tell us which patterns you tried, along with your high bust measurement. Along with how snug was the tape when you took your measurements.
Figuring out which pattern to start with can take acouple of goes, I'm crossing my fingers that you're testing them in inexpensive fabric. (know someone who tried to learn to sew making a bias cut silk sating skirt, and that's a very very steep learning curve)
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Sydney, Australia
Posted on: 5/9/07 11:52 PM ET
My measurements are similar to yours and usually I have to cut 6s and 8s. In other patterns I'm a perfect 14. And these are from the same pattern company! In most cases the description of the garment is a good hint - if it says anything about being loose, I know I'm going down a few sizes to keep it from swimming on me. Fitted and highly fitted garments are more likely to be accurate. But not always. I've become fairly adept at tissue-fitting by pinning the pieces together at the seam line and trying they on. Muslins are a lifesaver, especially if you start with something ultra-basic and use it in future projects as a guide. For example, I made a straight skirt muslin years ago and until weight loss changed my shape I just plopped it ontop of the tissue for my next project and could instantly see if the sizing was accurate. It takes work, someone to help fit you (I did it alone but it took a great deal longer with less satisfactory results) and patience but it's soooo worth it.
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Kit
"Never underestimate the power of the right dress!" - drsue
"Hyu gots to know how to sveet tok de costumers, dollink" - Girl Genius, 11-24-08
"Never underestimate the power of the right dress!" - drsue
"Hyu gots to know how to sveet tok de costumers, dollink" - Girl Genius, 11-24-08
Posted on: 5/10/07 9:44 AM ET
NEVER go by the size they tell you to use based on your measurements. The big 3 add in gigantic amounts of ease. Tissue fitting/tissue measuring are the proper way to do it, though mostly I'm too lazy and rely on the given finished garment measurements. Bust, waist, and hip are always printed on the pattern tissue, and usually a few finished garment measurements are given on the pattern envelope. This lesson took me way too many years to learn.
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http://theslapdashsewist.blogspot.com
=================
2007: purchased 115+, sewed 105+
So close to parity, yet so far
Trying again in 2008
Yards purchased: 133
Yards sewn: Somewhere around 95
2009? I give up
=================
2007: purchased 115+, sewed 105+
So close to parity, yet so far
Trying again in 2008
Yards purchased: 133
Yards sewn: Somewhere around 95
2009? I give up
Posted on: 5/10/07 10:22 AM ET
I understand your frustration! My first top I sewed in my ready to wear size, and it turned out to be too small! Then when I read the back of the envelope, I should have made it 2 sizes bigger. I bought a whole bunch of patterns a couple of weeks ago when they were on sale at Joann's, but all of them are too small as well.
Posted on: 5/10/07 10:24 AM ET
In reply to sew cute
You have good advice from everyone. I wanted to add to be sure that the fabric didn't stretch out while sewing. Did you stay stitch the curved pieces? They can stretch out without you realizing it although 6 inches does sound extreme. It always is a good idea to measure the flat pattern. You can check to see if the fabric stretched by comparing it to the pattern.
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Patty
Posted on: 5/13/07 11:11 PM ET
In reply to sew cute
I am sharing your frustration. I've just tried on a pair of capris and they are way too big. Fortunately I haven't put in the zipper yet, or the waistband, so I will try to save them. I was hoping they'd be a "wearable" muslin because I love the fabric ... even if the whole piece was less than $4.00!!! According to the pattern sizing I should have sewed a 22, but when I compared it to the tissue I knew they'd be huge, and decided to cut a 20. Guess I should have gone with 18, maybe even 16 by the looks of it. It really makes sewing for beginners difficult doesn't it? I didn't trust myself to cut that much smaller than what the envelope was saying. I fit a RTW 14 .. if anyone out there has figured out what that generally is in a pattern I love that bit of knowledge!
A few weeks ago I made my daughter a scrub top. I thought that would be an excellent project for my skill level. The pattern back rated her measurements between a M and a L. I had had the foresight to measure the bust on her favourite RTW scrub top and when I looked at the final measurements on the pattern tissue I knew I had to sew a Small!!! I mean really, that's craziness... why tell you L on the pattern enevelope then!! Sigh.
A few weeks ago I made my daughter a scrub top. I thought that would be an excellent project for my skill level. The pattern back rated her measurements between a M and a L. I had had the foresight to measure the bust on her favourite RTW scrub top and when I looked at the final measurements on the pattern tissue I knew I had to sew a Small!!! I mean really, that's craziness... why tell you L on the pattern enevelope then!! Sigh.
Posted on: 5/14/07 9:45 AM ET
In reply to PattyU
Quote: PattyU
I wanted to add to be sure that the fabric didn't stretch out while sewing. Did you stay stitch the curved pieces? They can stretch out without you realizing it
I wanted to add to be sure that the fabric didn't stretch out while sewing. Did you stay stitch the curved pieces? They can stretch out without you realizing it
That is a good point. If the waist isn't stayed, it can stretch out. The first non-elastic skirt I made stretched to the point where it fell around my hips (however, when I later became pregnant, it made a wonderful maternity skirt up to my due date). I don't even rely on just stay stitching now--I may use interfacing, fusible bias stay tape, twill tape, but add something extra to make sure that my pieces don't grow.
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Kim
Posted on: 5/14/07 11:51 AM ET
In reply to nicegirl
This is the right idea...always use the finished garment measurements...vanity sizing is alive and well EVEN in the children's sizes, the big 4 add 4" or so of ease.
Ease is such an individual thing...I finally took a RTW skirt that I liked the fit of in the waist (I thought it was large in hips) and measured it and said " oh yes, I want my waist in a woven to be X inches and I want the hips to be Y. Do the same thing for a knit garment and a flowy fabric garment and you'll have a good starting point for how much ease YOU feel comfortable with.
And yes, the salespeople have fits but most pattern companies seem to print the pertinent finished measurements on the pattern itself not the envelope. For example on a skirt, the envelope might give the final finished length
...fine...but what is the final waist and hips for each size...break open the envelope, dig thru the pattern pieces ...
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Ease is such an individual thing...I finally took a RTW skirt that I liked the fit of in the waist (I thought it was large in hips) and measured it and said " oh yes, I want my waist in a woven to be X inches and I want the hips to be Y. Do the same thing for a knit garment and a flowy fabric garment and you'll have a good starting point for how much ease YOU feel comfortable with.
And yes, the salespeople have fits but most pattern companies seem to print the pertinent finished measurements on the pattern itself not the envelope. For example on a skirt, the envelope might give the final finished length
...fine...but what is the final waist and hips for each size...break open the envelope, dig thru the pattern pieces ...------
Too much fabric to count...
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