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I'm getting a lot of puckering (Moderated by Deepika)
Posted on: 2/2/08 3:47 PM ET
I am making a silk crepe de chine blouse and I have never used silk before. I am staystiching the necklines and I have my tension at 4 and am using a size 2 length. I tested out several different stitch lengths and tensions on a scrap and this seemed to work the best, but I still am getting some puckering.
Anyone have any hints?
-- Edited on 2/2/08 3:51 PM --
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Anyone have any hints?
-- Edited on 2/2/08 3:51 PM --
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"You make my heart smile" dd Kate at 2 1/2 yrs old to her grammy
Nothing tastes as good as sewing a size smaller feels!
Nothing tastes as good as sewing a size smaller feels!
Posted on: 2/2/08 4:03 PM ET
In reply to Babs42
Hi Babs42,
Flimsy silk, while luxurious to wear, is a bit frustrating to sew. Have you tried a brand new needle, in a smaller size? A dull needle is definitely a major pain when sewing thin fabrics.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Sophiecat
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Flimsy silk, while luxurious to wear, is a bit frustrating to sew. Have you tried a brand new needle, in a smaller size? A dull needle is definitely a major pain when sewing thin fabrics.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Sophiecat
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Well-behaved women rarely make history.
Laurel Ulrich
Laurel Ulrich
Posted on: 2/2/08 4:10 PM ET
In reply to Babs42
You definitely need a brand new small needle, like a 75. You also may need a smaller needle hole throat plate. If you can't swap yours out, make a cover for the plate you have with a post-it. Some of the puckering could be fabric getting pushed into the hole.
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Mary Lynn (Who's finally sitting up and taking nourishment)
Design Degree??? I prefer my artistic license
"A woman who works with her hands is a laborer; a woman who works with her hands and her mind is a craftsman; but a woman who works with her hands and her brain and her heart is an artist." (St. Thomas Aquinas, modified)
Design Degree??? I prefer my artistic license
"A woman who works with her hands is a laborer; a woman who works with her hands and her mind is a craftsman; but a woman who works with her hands and her brain and her heart is an artist." (St. Thomas Aquinas, modified)
Posted on: 2/2/08 4:37 PM ET
In reply to Babs42
According to p. 39 of Sandra Betzina's "More Fabric Savvy", "Fine machine embroidery silk or cotton thread gives the best stitch because it marries with the fabric, doesn't take up much room, and doesn't stretch and cause puckers."
"Stitch Length 1.5 mm to 2.0 mm
Presser Foot
Straight stitch presser foot or switch needle to far left position for support on three sides. Loosen top and bobbin tension 1/8 to 1/4 turn."
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"Stitch Length 1.5 mm to 2.0 mm
Presser Foot
Straight stitch presser foot or switch needle to far left position for support on three sides. Loosen top and bobbin tension 1/8 to 1/4 turn."
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Fabric Purchased in 2011: 37 yards
Fabric Sewn in 2011: 0 yards
Current Contest Moderator: Lined Jacket
Current Contest Participant: Mini Wardrobe
Fabric Sewn in 2011: 0 yards
Current Contest Moderator: Lined Jacket
Current Contest Participant: Mini Wardrobe
Posted on: 2/2/08 4:41 PM ET
In reply to Babs42
And if after changing to a fresh smaller needle and making your throat plate hole smaller, you still get puckering, try "taut sewing" where you hold the fabric taut behind the needle with your left hand and place your right hand about 12-20" in front of the needle (whatever length is comfortable for you) and hold the fabric taut while you sew that portion.
Reposition for sewing the next portion. Don't pull the fabric tight or stretch the fabric (especially silk) but just hold it taut.
If that doesn't solve the problem, you may have to resort to putting a strip of tissue paper between the feed dogs and the silk fabric. Don't worry, it pulls off the back easily after sewing. --Lily
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Reposition for sewing the next portion. Don't pull the fabric tight or stretch the fabric (especially silk) but just hold it taut.
If that doesn't solve the problem, you may have to resort to putting a strip of tissue paper between the feed dogs and the silk fabric. Don't worry, it pulls off the back easily after sewing. --Lily
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Lily
Posted on: 2/2/08 5:00 PM ET
Thanks! I did use a new small needle and I am using the taut fabric technique. Once I press it, it is getting straight. My throat plate isn't interchangable but I will try the tissue paper if I get it again.
I appreciate the help!
Barb
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I appreciate the help!
Barb
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"You make my heart smile" dd Kate at 2 1/2 yrs old to her grammy
Nothing tastes as good as sewing a size smaller feels!
Nothing tastes as good as sewing a size smaller feels!
Posted on: 2/2/08 5:04 PM ET
For silk crepe de chine, use a Universal size 60/8 or 70/10 (max) needle. The smaller the better. Try lowering your presser foot pressure to 3. Stitch length should be 2.5-3. And I have to disagree with SB about silk thread. It will tend to cut through the fabric at stress points, because the silk thread is often stronger than the fabric (not so much with crepe de chine, but why take the chance). I use regular old polyester thread from Mettler or Gutterman with no ill effects. I do agree about the tissue paper if you still have problems.
When you sew each seam, press it flat on both sides to meld the stitching into the fabric, then the seam open. That will help with the result too.
HTH!
When you sew each seam, press it flat on both sides to meld the stitching into the fabric, then the seam open. That will help with the result too.
HTH!
Posted on: 2/2/08 5:07 PM ET
In reply to Babs42
With silks like these, I always use a small (sometimes a #8) "sharp" needle, as opposed to a universal. A couple of times, I've had to switch to cotton embroidery thread, too, because it's very thin. One more thing that is surprisingly helpful in reducing puckers is to use a very narrow zigzag stitch, rather than a straight stitch. Experimenting, as you are doing, is really sensible.
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Elona
Posted on: 2/2/08 5:39 PM ET
Hi Barb.
On silks, I use a Microtex needle with cotton thread. I also use a 2.8 or 3.0 stitch length.
Doing that has virtually eliminated puckering for me.
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On silks, I use a Microtex needle with cotton thread. I also use a 2.8 or 3.0 stitch length.
Doing that has virtually eliminated puckering for me.
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Big 4 Pattern size 12, RTW bottom: 6, RTW jacket 8, RTW top (no size fits me well!)
Measurements: 34 HB/36 FB (34C bra)/27.5/36 (and working hard to keep it that way.)
Machines: Sewing: Elna 760, vintage Kenmore Model 33 (1967), Janome Gem Gold 3, Singer Model 99, Singer 221/Featherweight, Bernina 1630. Sergers: Babylock Enlighten and Babylock Ovation. Embroidery Only: Janome 300E. Embroidery/Sewing Combo: Brother Dream machine. Straight Stitch: Janome 1600P.
Certified Palmer/Pletsch Pants Fitting Instructor
Blog: 21stcenturydiy.blogspot.com
Measurements: 34 HB/36 FB (34C bra)/27.5/36 (and working hard to keep it that way.)
Machines: Sewing: Elna 760, vintage Kenmore Model 33 (1967), Janome Gem Gold 3, Singer Model 99, Singer 221/Featherweight, Bernina 1630. Sergers: Babylock Enlighten and Babylock Ovation. Embroidery Only: Janome 300E. Embroidery/Sewing Combo: Brother Dream machine. Straight Stitch: Janome 1600P.
Certified Palmer/Pletsch Pants Fitting Instructor
Blog: 21stcenturydiy.blogspot.com
Posted on: 2/2/08 7:17 PM ET
In reply to Babs42
In a magazine, I saw a picture of a movie star in a silk dress by a very famous design house...the seams were puckery and the darts had point dimples! Of course, the designer most likely does not actually SEW the dress...yet how could it be let out of "the house" like that? Even we strive for better!
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