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Member since 11/3/11
Posts: 4
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Posted on: 11/3/11 7:03 PM ET
Hi folks
First post from another newbie (both to sewing and to the board)!
I would like to make dresses with sleeves, suitable for work. I would be a US size 14 and prefer dresses with a-line or wider-than-straight skirts, as I'm not so slim.
Can anybody recommend some suitable patterns for me please? I am going to try the New Look 6000 dress (am hoping that the gather at the side will camouflage the tummy area!), as I love the neckline and sleeve styling.
Looking forward to hearing from you :-)
JoJo
  
Member since 4/8/02
Posts: 753
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Posted on: 11/3/11 7:49 PM ET
In reply to sewingjojo
JoJo,

Welcome to PR. You'll find lots of encouragement and support for your sewing adventures here.

NL6000 is a gorgeous dress and looks very suitable for a beginner. If you have a good sewing book handy to help you with the zipper, setting in the sleeves and getting the darts right, you shouldn't have a problem. Much will depend on how closely your figure shape is to the shape of the pattern. Take your measurements carefully before you begin and measure your pattern pieces to compare. It's always easier to subtract fabric than to add it! Don't forget that you can add width to the bottom of the dress if you'd like the skirt more A-line shaped.

As to recommending another dress pattern for you, your dress/pattern size is not nearly as important as your proportions and personal preferences. For the future, here are a few guidelines:

1. Think about what dress styles have earned you the most compliments in the past. Look up 'snoop shopping' in the tips section. It can help you identify what styles you like on yourself.

2. Do the dresses you've received compliments on have anything in common, e.g., neckline, skirt shape and fullness, placement of waistline (high, natural waist, no defined waist), with or without collar, shoulder seam (set-in, raglan, dolman), etc.? Try to identify what makes you love or hate a particular style. You already mentioned that you wanted a little fulness in the skirt which implies that you are a little wider in the hips than in the bust, i.e., triangle shaped. Some pattern books indicate the body shape that a style suits best.

3. Take into account your skill level. If you are a beginner, choose a pattern rated easy or very easy. Almost all of the pattern books identify up-to-date styles that are easier to sew than others.

4. Set aside some time to browse the pattern books. Before purchasing the pattern, read through the directions and think about how you are going to construct the garment. Note any questions to ask on PR.

5. Ask someone in the fabric store to help you pick out a suitable fabric, if possible. Most fabrics today are a blend of synthetics. Ask about caring for the fabric; you probably want it to be washable. If you want a dress for work, choose a fairly conservative colour, but one that you really like. A print or texture hides irregular stitches better than a solid.

6. Make sure the pattern you pick is one you really love so you will be motivated to finish your garment. Then allow yourself lots of time so you're not rushing.

7. Put the pattern numbers (one at a time) that you are considering into the search box on PR so that you can read any pertinent reviews. If there are no reviews and you have the time, fill out 'request a review' for each pattern.

I know this sounds like a lot of work before you even take the pattern out of the envelope but it eventually becomes second nature. A little planning first will make the whole process more enjoyable and much easier.

There's no such thing as a stupid question so don't be afraid to ask. We were all beginners once.

If you have any more questions, you know where to ask. Good luck!


-- Edited on 11/3/11 7:59 PM --
  
B

B
Member since 12/5/03
Posts: 716
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Posted on: 11/5/11 12:15 PM ET
I hope your mentioned size is your pattern size and not your ready-to-wear purchased dress size, as they are usually quite different. Follow the suggestions for comparing your measurements to the pattern envelope.
You might want to pin-fit the pattern on you, or better yet, make a quick "muslin" of cheaper, similar fabric (bed sheets, worn out or thrift shop clothing, or other low cost fabric) to see how the fit seems before you cut into your nice fabric. Some people can fit right into a pattern and others need to alter in various places to get it to fit properly.
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Janome serger 634D, Brother PC6000, Singer 500A, Kenmore Mini-Ultra, vintage Bernina 600, White Rotary treadle, New Homestead A VS treadle
  
Member since 11/3/11
Posts: 4
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Posted on: 11/11/11 4:13 PM ET
Thanks so much for your extremely comprehensive and helpful replies ! I only wish I had read them before I started on my New Look 6000 dress. I've just finished cutting out all the pattern pieces in my rtw size and I'm getting a sinking feeling that it's going to be too small
I think I'll make up the lining and see if it fits. Will keep you posted!
  
Member since 11/3/11
Posts: 4
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Posted on: 11/12/11 5:16 AM ET
As Homer Simpson would say... "D'oh !"
I hand-tacked my fabric pieces together and tried them on last night, but the dress is too small
I didn't check the pattern measurements - I just found my rtw dress size on the back and cut that out. Will bring the sorry mess to sewing class on monday and see if the teacher can salvage the situation somehow. Is it possible to insert extra panels or something, does anyone know?
  
Member since 1/20/08
Posts: 1301
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Posted on: 11/12/11 6:38 AM ET
In reply to sewingjojo
I am sorry to say...probably not. I am a RTW size 12-14 and regularly sew pattern sizes anywhere from a 16 to a 22 depending on the measurements. I really don't see being able to insert that much with an extra panel...and I've been sewing for 35 years.

More than that, as a beginner, don't put yourself in a position where you will be frustrated by a project that is going to be so difficult and might have bad results even if it is possible. I know that it is frustrating, but I have taught quite a few people to sew and everyone does this at least once. The best thing is to start fresh. Get new fabric, a new pattern, and start over.




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Michelle

http://cheapandpicky.blogspot.com/
  
Member since 7/3/10
Posts: 1454
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Posted on: 11/12/11 7:29 AM ET
In reply to sewingjojo
don't feel too bad. I had the good sense to enroll on a dressmaking course when I first started sewing, but then completely forgot the tutor's warning about size differences. Fortunately for me I discovered my error before cutting out any fabric.

As I am different sizes at different points of my body (don't be surprised if this turns out to be the case for you, it is quite common) so was able to widen with extra paper the bits that were not going to fit.

Another thing to take in to account is that with some patterns you have more space as they are less fitted. In those cases you are more likely to get away with small differences. However, if it's very fitted there is literally only a small error margin ! (by that I mean making a smaller seam allowance).
  
Member since 4/1/08
Posts: 16111
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Posted on: 11/12/11 1:56 PM ET
In reply to sewingjojo
sewingjojo,

Love the enthusiasm you have put into your project, you've accomplished a lot. If the dress is still just tacked together and not salvageable, seize the opportunity to use it for a fitting guide.

Open up the basted side seams and add a strip of fabric to each side seam. Uniformly cut two inch (or 3 inch) strips. This would be four strips to add to each side front and to each side back.

Once you have attached the strips (a machine basting stitch would be fine), press the seams open to help you visualize the original cut fabric and the attached strip as one piece. Now do a pinned fitting. Record every single change you make.
.................Side Front, added two (or 3) inch strip, minus .5 inch seam allowance of original fabric and strip, effectively added one (or 2) inch overall to each of 4 side seams..............
.................Pinned normal seam allowance, needed to pin an extra .25 inches to increase side seams from .5 to .75.....................

Whatever changes you make, record them on a notepad so you can use them as a road map for choosing the pattern (don't even think of it as a size) that will best fit you.

If your project cannot be adjusted for your use, consider completing it to donate.

Keep your pattern. Either note all of your recorded changes on the pattern, or tape some extra tissue to the pattern pieces to draw in the pattern changes. It will be an excellent guide to you when working with any new pattern.

A journal or notebook would be helpful. Note the pattern number, the size and measurements shown for that size on the envelope. Keep a log of your noted deviations. You'll see a trend develop that will allow you to make the adjustments to the pattern before cutting on future projects. And think about adding extra seam allowance to your major seams while you are still working on fit. You can always cut it off later.

Consider using your experience to choose a different pattern size, same pattern and making a muslin with the cheapest fabric or old sheet you can find. Between your class and what you learn on your own by doing this, you'll feel extremely confident when you cut into your fabric. Best wishes, sounds like you are learning a lot and doing a great job.


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Each fallen petal reveals a life pollinated by a colony
and nurtured by The Master Gardener.
  
Member since 11/3/11
Posts: 4
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Posted on: 11/23/11 6:00 PM ET
Thanks for the comments all.
In the interest of continued learning (and not wasting the money I spent on both pattern and fabric) I've decided to continue with the dress, making up the collar and the sleeves and cuffs in class today. They look great - am very proud of them and am a new convert to overlocking.. makes the seams look so professional!
My instructor reckons she can implement some magic to add a panel/panels to make it fit - that'll be next week's class. I'll keep you posted :)
  
Member since 3/2/06
Posts: 242
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Posted on: 11/25/11 10:23 PM ET
I'm also a beginner, and I have to tell you, it seems to be next to unavoidable to make these kinds of mistakes, and to make a couple of 'wadders' as they say around here - meaning projects that you will never wear.

From my mistakes I have learned that it's often a great learning experience to actually finish a project all the way to the end, even when I already know that it's not going to get worn (at least by me). I first learned to insert a zip and sew a waistband on a skirt I've never worn.

The other thing I've learned is to restrict myself to cheap fabric for the moment. There's just no point at all in spending a lot on money on something that could potentially go wrong enough to go in the bin. One caveat though - i get my cheap fabric from the fashion district here in LA, from the marked down section. I don't use crappy fabric, just cheap to me. Using crappy fabric just increases the likeliness that the project will fail.

And finally, starting with simple projects is definitely the way to go. It's a similar balance to the fabric issue - there's no point making something that you don't like, but equally, there's no point in attempting something that is doomed to fail because you simply don't have the skills yet. One of the hardest things for me is that the patterns just don't have all the details that a complete novice needs. The best thing to do is to have sewing reference books around, and if all else fails, ask here what instructions mean.

Oh yes! I have also learned that it takes no time at all to sew something wrong, but it takes a loooooong time to rip something that was sewn in the wrong way. It's worth taking your time, and checking a few times before putting your foot down. As people like to say around here - ask me how I know!
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BrownPaperPattern.blogspot.com
  
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