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Member since 5/5/04
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Posted on: 4/27/05 7:32 AM ET
With the exception of knits, most of the instructions I've seen for setting sleeves shows it done after the side seams are joined. I'm making a basic shell with this incredibly slippery fabric and setting the sleeves is making me tear my hair out. I'm thinking this might have been easier if I'd set the sleeves before sewing the side seams.

Opinions please. When do you set sleeves in blouse-type tops? Does it depend on the fabric? Style?
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Lori

  
Member since 1/26/03
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Posted on: 4/27/05 7:53 AM ET
You're going to find a lot of disagreement on this, with the set in camp and the flat application camp.

Your problem is the slippery fabric, so try addressing that with basting spray, wonder tape or even hand basting after much pinning.
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Member since 9/6/04
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Posted on: 4/27/05 9:03 AM ET
I personally prefer flat application. I just think it's a bit easier, and I usually end up with fewer unwanted puckers. Also, it's combining two steps into one, which saves a bit of time.
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--Jessica
  
Member since 4/24/05
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Posted on: 4/27/05 11:10 AM ET
I agree with the previous post. I think the flat application is easier, with more room for give. Unfortunately--since most patterns (save for Kwik Sew) do the set in sleeve--adjustments in the sleeve must be made before the flat application. In the past, I've traced a favorite flat sleeve from a KwikSew pattern and used that as a guide for cutting other sleeves.
  
Member since 4/14/04
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Posted on: 4/27/05 2:38 PM ET
In reply to PixieCat
IMHO it does depend on fabric and style. Sewing in a sleeve flat works best for knits or for a woven fabirc sleeve that has a relatively flat or shallow cap (ie. a shirt that has a slightly dropped shoulder).

The slippery fabric sounds like a real pain, but try pinning then using small hand-basting stitches. HTH.

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Liz
  
Member since 8/24/02
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Posted on: 4/27/05 3:46 PM ET
I find it easier to set in a sleeve in the round on wovens and designs where the cap of the sleeve cap is very high - meaning the seam is right on the shoulder and not dropped.
Flat is much easier such as for knits and dropped shoulder though.
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When life gives you green velvet curtains, make a green velvet dress.
  
Member since 4/11/02
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Posted on: 4/27/05 4:00 PM ET
Flat or in the round, I find it easiest to set in sleeves if seam allowances are 1/4". The standard 5/8" of most commercial patterns is too much seam allowance to control while you're trying to ease the cap. Cut 'em down to 1/4", put the sleeve next to the feeddogs, employ the "ease plus" method and you can sew a sleeve in the round with just your fingers and 3 pins (center, front notch, back notches) on most fabric.
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"I base my fashion sense on what doesn't itch." — Gilda Radner
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Member since 4/19/03
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Posted on: 4/27/05 6:16 PM ET
I have difficulties setting sleeves and one thing I always do is measure the sleeve circ. versus the body. If the difference is more than 1.5 I remove some of that right away.

Simplicity 4637 (great collar!) had 2.5 ease. I kept carving away at muslin versions until it was only .75.

Another thing that helps me is to cut a piece of Seams Great the length from back notch to front notch on the body of the shirt and stretch and stitch it onto the sleeve cap. It draws in the ease with no puckers.

One thing I do not like about the Kwiksew patterns that have you sew the sleeve in flat is that they have a vertical fold of excess fabric right in front of the armsyce. I think it makes me look sloppy. YMMV.

Omigosh I have a star! Jeepers! Thanks everyone!


-- Edited on 4/27/05 7:18 PM --
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"Today there are so many people, so many things, so many emotions, and the more there is, the less I want. The more man flies to the moon, the more I want to sit and look at a tree. The more I live in a city, the more I search for a blade of grass." Audrey Hepburn, Vogue Magazine, 1971
  
Member since 8/24/02
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Posted on: 4/27/05 8:10 PM ET
In reply to Cambric Tea
Why would Seams Great "draw in" the fabric? I haven't used it, but sounds like a handy thing to have around if it really helps to set sleeves.

Nina
  
Member since 4/19/03
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Posted on: 4/27/05 8:29 PM ET
Nina,
Seams Great is tricot bias, it has a great stretch and recovery . Measure the armscye from notch to notch, cut a piece of Seams Great to that measurement (or a little longer so that you have a "handle" to hold onto as you begin stitching) And stretch and stitch the Seams Great to the sleeve cap inside the seam allowance. It relaxs back to its original length (the armsyce measurement) so your sleeve ease is drawn in, without puckers.
You don't have to trim it off, you can just leave it and it works like a sleeve head, sort of.

Its pretty cool. I learned this technique from an old Nancy Zieman book I bought on Ebay which I just love. (Busy Woman's Guide to Sewing)


-- Edited on 4/27/05 9:30 PM --
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"Today there are so many people, so many things, so many emotions, and the more there is, the less I want. The more man flies to the moon, the more I want to sit and look at a tree. The more I live in a city, the more I search for a blade of grass." Audrey Hepburn, Vogue Magazine, 1971
  
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