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cotton twill
Posted on: 2/9/03 6:23 PM ET
Hi Gigi,
I was getting ready to sew some pants from cotton twill. I pre-washed the fabric.
Now the selvedges will not line up if I fold the fabric on the grainline. In fact, there is a 4" difference between selvedges on one end of the yardage.
I tried cutting off the selvedges. I also tried pressing out all the wrinkles and stretching the fabric back to its original shape. But the difference is still about 4" at one end.
This is cheap fabric from Jo-Ann. So my question is: should I just forget about it and start over with better fabric?
What I am trying to avoid is making a garment that will twist out of shape after the first washing. And, if all cotton twill behaves this way, I would want to learn how to work with it.
Thanks,
Betty
I was getting ready to sew some pants from cotton twill. I pre-washed the fabric.
Now the selvedges will not line up if I fold the fabric on the grainline. In fact, there is a 4" difference between selvedges on one end of the yardage.
I tried cutting off the selvedges. I also tried pressing out all the wrinkles and stretching the fabric back to its original shape. But the difference is still about 4" at one end.
This is cheap fabric from Jo-Ann. So my question is: should I just forget about it and start over with better fabric?
What I am trying to avoid is making a garment that will twist out of shape after the first washing. And, if all cotton twill behaves this way, I would want to learn how to work with it.
Thanks,
Betty
Posted on: 2/9/03 8:32 PM ET
Hi Betty -
Sorry you're having troubles with the twill.
Can't help you with the fabric, but I can tell you that not all twills are created equal. I get mine at Fabric.com and I have never, ever had a problem with theirs'. They have different "weights" and I have used a very nice lightweight for pants for my FIL that I guess he lives in all the time (Palm Springs weather). I have also made a pair of midweight pants for DH and can testify that he has lived in his since August and they still look great!
Hope things work out for you.
Holly
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Sorry you're having troubles with the twill.
Hope things work out for you.
Holly
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"The earth laughs in flowers."
- Ralph Waldo Emerson
- Ralph Waldo Emerson
Posted on: 2/9/03 8:54 PM ET
Thanks Holly. I don't buy many fabrics at Jo-Ann anymore, but I was trying to use up my stash.
I did manage to re-fold it so that there is a 2-inch difference at each end instead of a 4-inch difference at one end. I don't know if that makes it any better though.
I did manage to re-fold it so that there is a 2-inch difference at each end instead of a 4-inch difference at one end. I don't know if that makes it any better though.
Posted on: 2/9/03 9:06 PM ET
Betty, try tearing each end (across the width) so you find the true grainline, unless you've already done that. If you don't want to tear it, try pulling on one of the threads so that the grainline shows itself across the width. If these methods of showing the true grainline shows the fabric is terribly off grain, then yes, a more expensive twill may be the answer. I have some twill pants with one twisted leg that I think are twisted because of this.
Good luck!
Good luck!
Posted on: 2/9/03 9:24 PM ET
Gigi I hope you don't mind my jumping in, but here is my contribution:
This is from my Simplicity book:
For natural fiber fabrics, clip and pull a crosswise thread all the way down and cut the crosswise on this thread line. Match the crosswise edges and selvages, and you will see the bubbles and wrinkles appear, indicating off grain. Try steaming out the bubbles. You should secure the edges with pins on a cutting board, foam, or other surface that your steam iron isn't going to damage and that you can pin to. If steaming and lightly stretching the fabric at the same time does not work, the fabric is probably forever off grain, so use the "truing" method".
Truing is to mark a line at one end of the fabric at a 90 degree angle to the selvage. Fold fabric so that this crosswise line matches at the selvage. It's possible that the selvages won't match along the length of the fabric. If this is the case, use the lengthwise fold, not the selvage edge, as your reference point when you lay out the pattern pieces.
I would try both methods, though it sounds like you already have tried the first with no luck. I have used truing on ornary fabric and it worked fine. The other choice is to not fold the fabric at all, to cut on the piece as a whole, using the selvage as your reference point. This however is a real pain, as you will probably have to get on the floor, etc. I recently had a knit that was sooo off grain, you should have seen it laid out - all crooked, but my foldline was on grain. I had to add a center back seam to the back, cause I could not fit the pattern pieces any other way, it was so off. Hope this helped. Mary T
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This is from my Simplicity book:
For natural fiber fabrics, clip and pull a crosswise thread all the way down and cut the crosswise on this thread line. Match the crosswise edges and selvages, and you will see the bubbles and wrinkles appear, indicating off grain. Try steaming out the bubbles. You should secure the edges with pins on a cutting board, foam, or other surface that your steam iron isn't going to damage and that you can pin to. If steaming and lightly stretching the fabric at the same time does not work, the fabric is probably forever off grain, so use the "truing" method".
Truing is to mark a line at one end of the fabric at a 90 degree angle to the selvage. Fold fabric so that this crosswise line matches at the selvage. It's possible that the selvages won't match along the length of the fabric. If this is the case, use the lengthwise fold, not the selvage edge, as your reference point when you lay out the pattern pieces.
I would try both methods, though it sounds like you already have tried the first with no luck. I have used truing on ornary fabric and it worked fine. The other choice is to not fold the fabric at all, to cut on the piece as a whole, using the selvage as your reference point. This however is a real pain, as you will probably have to get on the floor, etc. I recently had a knit that was sooo off grain, you should have seen it laid out - all crooked, but my foldline was on grain. I had to add a center back seam to the back, cause I could not fit the pattern pieces any other way, it was so off. Hope this helped. Mary T
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Bernina 790 PRO, 570
Babylock Evolution
When life gives you green velvet curtains, make a green velvet dress.
Babylock Evolution
When life gives you green velvet curtains, make a green velvet dress.
Posted on: 2/9/03 9:32 PM ET
Betty, there is a technique for straightening out the grain before you start cutting into your fabric. Often times, it can fix the problem and you can use the fabric for what ever purpose it was intended for. To straighten it out, first, find the crosswise grain using the technique mountain_wren describes. Then, Open and flatten it out and check to see if it is at a right angle with the lengthwise grain. Match it against a table corner or something. If not, grasp the fabric across the bias, pulling on the bias so that it will form that 90degree angle. Do this pulling and stretching for the whole length of your fabric. Check and repeat the procedure till you've got the lengthwise and crosswise grains perpendicular.
Hopefully, you don't have a whole long length of fabric... but if you do, this technique will probably salvage that twill. Good luck!
Dale
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Hopefully, you don't have a whole long length of fabric... but if you do, this technique will probably salvage that twill. Good luck!
Dale
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"ACK! I'm having withdrawals! Get me to a sewing machine... NOW!"
Posted on: 2/10/03 6:33 AM ET
Thanks you guys for jumping in!
One thing I'd like to add: heavier twills, like denims, are sometimes very resistant to being straightened. Sometimes you just have to do the best you can and proceed with your project. Good luck.
Posted on: 2/10/03 6:38 AM ET
Years ago I used a Palmer/Pletsch pattern that instructed users to wash and dry denim three times before using it, then lay it out with the selvedges lined up, *ignoring what happened to the ends*. Denim, like your fabric, is a twill weave, and it twists. If you try to straighten it, it will twist again after it has been sewn. (Have you ever bought a pair of jeans that twisted, so the sideseam wound up at the front of your leg?) I have followed their instructions faithfully since I used that pattern. I wash and dry a twill weave, then lay it out flat with the selvedges lined up. The ends are never straight, but if I line up the grain line on the pattern pieces with the selvedge, the finished garment is fine.
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“Never try to teach a pig to sing; it wastes your time and it annoys the pig.” -Robert Heinlein and Ann's father. Thanks for the reminder, Ann.
Where are we going, and what am I doing in this handbasket?
Matthew 25:40 (New International Version)
The King will reply, 'I tell you the truth, whatever you did for one of the least of these brothers of mine, you did for me.'
Where are we going, and what am I doing in this handbasket?
Matthew 25:40 (New International Version)
The King will reply, 'I tell you the truth, whatever you did for one of the least of these brothers of mine, you did for me.'
Posted on: 2/10/03 6:55 AM ET
Thanks everyone. Believe or not, I've already ripped the fabric, lined up the grainline with a table edge, steamed it to death, stretched it, and that's how I got it down to "only" 4 inches off.
Karla, that's interesting about the denim. Now I'm wondering if I should re-wash the fabric.
I did notice, on my fabric, that the distorted parts are mostly at each end toward the selvedge/crosswise end corners. The crosswise grains look pretty straight in most other sections. (I hope I'm not being too optimistic.)
I laid out my pattern so that the legs are on the straighter part. Do you think that might be enough to prevent the twisting mentioned?
Karla, that's interesting about the denim. Now I'm wondering if I should re-wash the fabric.
I did notice, on my fabric, that the distorted parts are mostly at each end toward the selvedge/crosswise end corners. The crosswise grains look pretty straight in most other sections. (I hope I'm not being too optimistic.)
I laid out my pattern so that the legs are on the straighter part. Do you think that might be enough to prevent the twisting mentioned?
Posted on: 2/10/03 5:46 PM ET
Oh yea, and the prices on those twills - $2.75 to $3.95 with some really nice spring colors, NAYY. I just like turning people on to good stuff. Glad you are getting that match down to - what is it? 2" now? We're all rooting for you.
Take care.
Holly
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Holly
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"The earth laughs in flowers."
- Ralph Waldo Emerson
- Ralph Waldo Emerson
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