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McCall's Bathrobes and Pajamas 3979 OOP pattern review by Alpine Queen

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Alpine Queen starstarstarstar
06 France
Member since 4/9/13
288 Reviews (patterns: 287)
Skill: Expert/Couture
Favored by 178 people
Type: Mens - Sleepwear / Loungewear
Fabric: Velour  [See other projects in this fabric]
Fit: Boxy or Loose (lots of ease)

Pattern Description:
Set of bathrobes and pajamas from 1988.

Pattern Sizing:
Small

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Not in the slightest! Not after what I did with the base patterns. But I think the drawings are pretty accurate for the intended look.

Fabric Used:
A nice winter green velour

Why did you use this particular pattern?
First, I had to read the mind of the woman ordering this cowboy Santa outfit. She doesn't sew with a pattern, I can't sew without at least something basic. Knowing I had this pattern, I convinced her that it could become what she wanted.

Second, I had to figure out the details that she wanted. Apparently she only had a rough vision, as her method is to design as she goes along. It was all quite stressful.

Pattern alterations and design changes:

The coat:
I took this men's size small pattern and enlarged it to a ginormous size. I had a previous Santa coat that I used for measurements. I widened the shoulder seams and raised them a bit as a grading effort, plus increased the shoulder seam at the sleeve for the large shoulder pads. I left the chest as designed but widened the front and back center seams 5/8" (random measurement so I could use my seam allowance ruler, lol). The coat I copied looked like it swung the side seams way out below the chest, so I angled the armhole from the shoulder to the greatly extended side sides. I used the "official" coat as a guide to widen the sleeves at the cuffs and determine the hem length as well as the overall circumference.

When I thought I had all the pieces altered enough and verified that everything lined up with everything else, I cut out the basic coat. But when I showed her the first stage, she decided she really wanted the collar a lot bigger and bolder. Why didn't she say that in the first place? I had no pattern with a huge shawl collar to copy, so I wasn't sure it was going to lay nicely with what I was designing. I kept trimming around the back, the shape looked silly, but otherwise it wasn't working coming over the shoulder. I had no idea if I should have made changes to the neckline, but I really didn't want to change curves I only knew how to sew, not design.

When I was as satisfied as possible with the shape, I cut out the facing which made the upper collar. But what about the missing part of the under collar which was already cut? As it wouldn't show, I simply pieced it to match. There was already the designed small curved piece creating the original shawl effect, so it actually looks on purpose. (See photo close-up.)

Then I had to add the fur, something I have never sewn before in my life (my roller foot and decreased presser foot pressure worked quite well). She wanted it on the center fronts. I had nothing to copy to know where to end the collar where it turned to the facing or the front bands where they ended under the collar and thought too much overlap would make it too bulky. I would have preferred the collar fur to be longer in the facing, but I had no more length of fur. (Once I pressed the finished result, everything ended up staying in place okay.)

Later, I felt like the weight of the fur sagged on the wide collar, so I took it apart enough to pad stitch the fur to the coat facing/upper collar so it became as just one piece. When it was all finished, I hand tacked the undercollar to the upper collar along that piece I'd added so that the edge of the collar stayed in place while being worn.

For the rest of the fur, I simply copied the size of the cuff and hem from the original coat that already pleased her. While I thought there was too much fur around the hem, that's apparently the look she wanted. It turns out that the fronts will not be overlapping, so the center fronts will not be lining up. That just adds a bit more fullness in the front, which she likes, and I don't think it affects the angle of the collar.

After all that, designing a lining that a bathrobe does not have was a piece of cake. I even added the traditional coat back tuck, but that probably was a bit of overkill. But I don't know the morphology of a larger built guy who might be a future wearer, so I didn't want to take a chance on anything being too tight.

The pants:
The pajama bottoms were exactly what I needed to copy the original costume, so I didn't have to try to figure out how to create a proper crotch curve. I simply split the pattern in the middle where a side seam would be and added 10" to make them match the costume I was copying.

I left some extra length in the waist elastic for a future larger body and didn't stitch up the opening. It can also be pulled tighter if necessary. As the original straight leg costume never stays tucked into the boots, I added elastic around the hems. It remains to be seen if that is effective or not.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I hope not! The pattern as designed is fairly classic, and I tried to protect the original robe pattern in case I ever actually want to make it for my DH in his normal size.

Conclusion:
Considering that I am used to sewing for Mr. Skinny for over 50 years, it was really weird to take his normal size patterns and enlarge them so much, especially when it will be for him for the time being! He was so gracious to put on the fake belly any time I needed to analyze what I was doing.

I do not do well in this kind of situation, especially when I'm trying to please somebody else who really doesn't know the details of what she wants. While she had her normal Christmas month doing fun activities, I had nothing but pure stress the whole month. My reward is that she ended up being totally pleased with the final result. Oof.

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5 Comments
mmcp said...(1/23/25 6:28 AM ET)   
Whatever she paid you, it wasn't enough!! but the end result is amazing-- and next time, you know-- "no" is always an option.
  
Usta B said...(1/22/25 5:16 PM ET)   
People do that to architects and builders of all kinds all the time. I hope all the rest of your holidays get to be more you-centered and partyish. That pattern would make a good smoking jacket for your dh to wear as you two host get-togethers with friends.
  
material excess said...(1/22/25 4:25 PM ET)   
Wow. The non-commission from heck! It did come out nicely though. Mr. AQ Claus looks very wild West Santa.
  
MsIngie said...(1/22/25 2:46 PM ET)   
That was indeed a stressful situation. Quite a stunning suit.
  
SewingTripper said...(1/22/25 11:14 AM ET)   
LOL! What a challenge! But in the end the customer is happy and that's what matters.
  
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