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Alice & Co. Patterns Lavender robe pattern review by sewing4therapy

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sewing4therapy starstar
Member since 10/22/18
103 Reviews (patterns: 100)
Favored by 12 people

Just finished my first ever robe which has turned out to be a wearable toile. Viscose jacquard is a bit cold on the skin for this cold weather though. The waist tie is very long with it being tied in a bow and feels heavy in my fabric. I am going to make it up again in a lightweight brushed cotton/modal and add a light loose lining and see how many times I go to the trouble of tying the very long belt.

I had never made a robe and so before embarking on a new project I bought several patterns and compared each one after putting them into sections; bath robe, button down quilted housecoat, shawl collar wrap around dressing gown and kimono style wrap around robe. I didn't need another bath robe but I like the idea of an ankle length button down dressing gown in a cotton quilted fabric, a calf length shawl collar wrap around robe in flannel for winter and a knee length wrap around robe in viscose for summer.

I decided to start with the easiest; a knee length wrap around and selected patterns in a kimono inspired style to compare with each other;
Vogue 8803 (vintage) and cumberband in 3 lengths,
Alice & Co Lavender Robe knee length,
Style Arc Loungewear Robe and eye mask knee length,
Burda 6244,
Victory Patterns Samara Cardigan/robe in 2 lengths,
Maison Fauve Nage Libre Jacket or Sable Jacket
Ottobre design evening jacket 05/2018/7
Named Lahja 2 lengths and
Simplicity vintage 0017 short mini length
Simplicity 8610 jacket OOP
Pattern Emporium Songbird Jacket and Cardi
Simplicity 3696
Simplicity 8800
McCalls 7132
Ikina2 sewing workshop jacket

After studying the silhouettes of each of these patterns I selected the Alice and Co Lavender Robe since I think it is the most suited for a viscose fabric because it has an A line shape with plenty of ease which will allow viscose (rayon), an artificial silk to drape well.

Pattern Description:
Dropped shoulders, bracelet length sleeves, roomy pockets and a loose fit throughout. Wear loose and flowing or cinch as tight as you like with a matching or contrast tie belt.
I would like to add this is a kimono inspired style with straight cut armholes and sleeve heads and loose sleeve hems. It is drafted for knee length and is cut straight across the chest at an angle to the centre fronts. The belt is especially long for tying into a bow.

Pattern Sizing:
Sizing table put me in a size 12 bust, 14 waist and 10 hips. Finished garment has 7.75" ease. I considered a size 10 due to the amount of ease but since I wanted to make French seams on this unlined robe I cut a 12 and graded down to a size 10 for the hips from the waist to the bottom hem. After sewing the shoulder seams successfully with French seams I made a mistake with the sleeve head and sewed the first pass right sides together on my overlocker. This was in fact fortuitous since French seams at the intersection of the sleeve underarm and side seam would have been far too bulky with my fabric and may have interfered with the hang. I continued with single pass 1cm seams as the pattern directed and overlocked the edges of the back, front and sleeve pieces cutting off 1/8". I also made another pass over the sleeve head attached to the front and back. There is 1/4" difference
between the sizes and so I have something in-between a 12 and a 10 size bearing in mind the centre back has no seam and was cut on a size 12.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes
I didn't do the topstitching details since embossed jacquard on my fabric would have been interrupted

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes but I wouldn't describe this robe as easy peasy or as having step by step instruction on some of the techniques. It could be helpful if the designers published a sew along. I h ad to look at robes made by other designers for a better understanding when making this robe up for the first time.

Fabric Suggestions from the pattern:
The world is your fabric oyster with this design. It will work well in every kind of cotton from the softest lawn to crisp shirting through to a homespun slub or bouncy double gauze. For a luxuriously slinky robe silk or satin would be a perfect choice. Make a long cardigan version in a Ponte di Roma knit or go for brocade for a stunning evening jacket/
coat. While you’re making up your mind make a cosy towelling version for the bathroom or
swimming pool!

The designer's fabric suggestions gave me a broad base to explore.
Fabrics to consider depending on the desired look and how the robe is worn:
Cotton types; lawn, shirting, eyelet, dotted Swiss, double gauze, chambray, sateen, homespun slub, needlecord, brushed cotton or cotton towelling,
Linen, linen/cotton blend,
Lightweight wool or cotton/wool blend, or wool crepe blend,
Silk types; charmeuse, crepe, twill or jacquard weave or brocade, cotton/silk blend, linen silk blend,
Polyester satin or cotton/polyester blend,
Tencel twill (cotton feel) or sanded tencel (silky feel),
Viscose (Rayon) an artificial silk; twill, jacquard, viscose/cotton sateen and brushed cotton/viscose or modal blend twill, or viscose silk/twill
Double knits; cotton interlock or sweater knit
Fabric choice will depend on the desired look. I wanted a soft drapey look for a dressing gown robe in a fabric with body and texture rather than being ultra lightweight.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like; the A line shape, the kimono inspired style, the practical bracelet length sleeves, the topstitching detail, extra touches like the hanging loop, and the French seams for this unlined robe. I also liked the opportunity to explore so many different fabrics for using this pattern which increased my learning.
I disliked the designer suggesting so many different fabrics without sampling each one. IMO it would have been better to list the more usual fabrics for a kimono inspired robe e.g.; silk, linen, cotton, wool, polyester, viscose and then have add-on suggestions for a brocade evening jacket/coat, a double knit long cardigan and a towelling bathrobe with samples made up in these variations with tips on how to tweak the pattern to account for a stiff brocade, a bulky towelling and a stretch knit. Most importantly French seams are not suitable for thicker fabrics and work better on thin fabrics. Another dislike is that the pattern pieces can be confusing with the waist tie and neckband being from the same pattern piece and not marked separately. Also, the inner tie loop and hanging loops are joined together for cutting into two later but the pattern shows a hard line rather than a broken one which means it can be cut into 2 by mistake when cutting out the pattern.

Fabric Used:
Viscose jacquard called Lily from Maison Fauve France 198gm/2
This fabric is beautiful and I could not get it out of my mind. It is on the heavy side for this project but it drapes very nicely and I could get away without lining it on this first attempt. (This pattern does not suggest a lining but I prefer to have dressing gown robes lined which means there is no need for French seams) The shop bought this fabric for sewists wanting to sew garments for the festive season and describes it as being suitable for nightwear so this is a special occasion robe for glamming up and relaxing in.
Interfacing is optional for the neckbands, waist tie and pocket tops. I wanted a soft look and so didn't use it.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made for a toile:
Pattern is drafted for 5' 5"-5'6" and so I lengthened by 1" to be on the safe side for a toile
Lengthened both front bands by 1/2" only since the draft has a little extra added for trimming off
Made 1" forward shoulder adjustment and adjusted the back neck by lowering 1" at the centre and tilting to meet the shoulders. I drew a straight line at the centre to blend to the original draft
Widened the belt by 3/8" to enable me to serge the edges a whisker before sewing
Made the ends of the belt angled which also enabled me to see the difference between the belt and neck/front bands of the pattern pieces
Trimmed off a little on the side seams 1/4" from hem grading to nothing at waist.
I needed to raise the belt loops 1" for a mature figure

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes I will sew it again this is my wearable toile. I recommend this pattern for the usual drapey fabrics that need lots of ease to hang nicely e.g. viscose, bamboo made from rayon and silk. I do not recommend French seams unless using a very lightweight fabric.
When I make it again I am going to use a brushed cotton/modal blend which is supple and has a matte finish remembering the tip to interface the belt partially. My preference is to make a lined robe without French seams. In which case a size 10 would work for me but I like having a French seam on the shoulder seams and so will keep these seams in a size 12 next time. I will also keep the centre back in a size 12. I am mindful that with wovens I usually cut my normal size on my upper back and a smaller size on my front.
Constructing the sleeve in a round rather than flat would help to reduce bulk at the sleeve/side seam intersection which is less likely to interfere with the hang.

Conclusion:
NB: This robe is described as being worn clinched in or open soft and flowing. I think this will only work when using the same fabric as the sample used by designer which looks ultra lightweight where French seams would have been appropriate too. Adjustments will need to be made depending on fabric choice when considering the broad range of fabrics suggested.
This is my wearable muslin. While the fabric is suitable for this pattern and the jacquard weave makes a slippery fabric easier to work with it is a more dressier robe than I intended. Jacquard fabrics are not suited for French seams on an unlined robe.
Sewists are going to have their own requirements for this robe but my fabric suggestions for this unlined robe pattern are;
For a floaty look; very lightweight (Storrs) silky cotton lawn worn open with pyjamas or nightdress in the same fabric
For a slinky heavier belted robe; viscose, or rayon from bamboo (from Raystitch in London), or silk.
For a matte finish a brushed cotton or brushed cotton/modal blend twill from Stragier in Belgium
Or if old stock of Liberty Lantana cotton/wool blend twill can be found (which is softer and has a little more wool in than new stock) this should make up nicely. I couldn't resist a lavender shade print.
IMO it is important to select a fabric that is soft and supple with drape to pair with nightgowns/shirts or pyjamas
A twill or jacquard weave gives viscose an interesting texture. Mind the Maker, Liberty, Zoe et Eglantine are brands to explore. Alternatively deadstock at New Craft House, Fabric Godmother or Sew me Sunshine in the UK.
I think the light to medium weight cotton fabric suggestions are better suited for the Named Lahja robe with its straight cut. A brocade version would be more suited for the Vogue vintage 8803. (If I wanted to make an evening jacket I would consider crushed velvet rather than brocade for this Lavender robe pattern). If this pattern is used for a towelling fabric I would size down to avoid bulk on the dropped shoulders. My preference would be to keep this pattern for wovens and select a cardigan pattern for double knits re the Ponte Roma suggestion.
Alternative patterns to consider for additional garments rather than use the Lavender robe pattern;
Samara Cardigan Pattern Victory Patterns
Maison Fauve Sable Jacket or Nage Libre Jacket
Ottobre design evening jacket 05/2018/7
Simplicity 8610 OOP

This is a nicely drafted pattern however, I have taken 1 star off since I think the fabric suggestions for alternate garments can be confusing especially for a beginner since there are too many variations that have not all been tested out. Suggesting French seams without differentiating between fabrics re weight and thickness was a mistake. I also found it confusing that the neckband and waist tie pattern pieces are the same but have not been labelled separately. I have modified my waist tie so that the ends are angled. Also the loops are made by cutting 1 and then cutting in half to make 2. It is confusing when cutting out the pattern because there is a cutting line indicating the pattern needs to be cut into 2 pieces rather than having a broken line to avoid cutting pattern piece by accident.
Due to the amount of ease I think this pattern is best suited to silky types e.g. viscose, silk and rayon from bamboo or a silky cotton lawn or a brushed cotton or brushed cotton/viscose blend since all of these fabrics are supple and can drape in this oversized draft. IMO cottons, linens and brocades are better suited on a straight cut with less ease since these fabrics will stand away from the body.
I would consider lining the Lavender robe for lightweight fabrics rather than having French seams. This would mean overlocking the vertical seams a whisker to begin with and then making 3/8" seams. I prefer constructing woven fabrics on my sewing machine rather than overlocker since I can achieve a crisper finish when pressing.
Maria has introduced PR members to this unique way of flatlining here on her blog.
Also, instructions here for a bagged lining from Threads magazine.

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10 Comments
Kayseri said...(1/25/25 3:25 PM ET)   
This is very lux, such a beautiful robe.
  
sewing4therapy replied...(1/25/25 10:16 PM ET)
Thank you.
SheBear0320 said...(1/25/25 3:03 PM ET)   
Love this fabric - thank you for your very detailed review. Look forward to your other makes of this pattern!
  
sewing4therapy replied...(1/25/25 10:15 PM ET)
Thank you. I am looking forward to starting another one.
MVi14 said...(1/24/25 1:20 PM ET)   
Your first try at this pattern turned out to be very lovely especially in that fabric!
  
sewing4therapy replied...(1/25/25 1:59 AM ET)
Thank you Maria. I will be lining the next one but probably not flat lining this time since I don't want to interfere with the drape of the fabric.
Seamingly Simple said...(1/24/25 8:12 AM ET)   
Thank you for such a detailed review. Although chilly right now, your lovely fabric will be perfect when warmer weather comes.
  
sewing4therapy replied...(1/25/25 2:04 AM ET)
Thank you. I hope I will wear it. I have a tendency to grab the nearest cardigan and wear it without fastening up.
DTsewingstories said...(1/23/25 8:12 PM ET)   
This fabric is gorgeous for this robe. Lovely... and such a thorough review.
  
sewing4therapy replied...(1/25/25 2:06 AM ET)
Thank you Danielle. You were right it definitely isn't a robe to wear everyday but it is lovely fabric to sew.
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